Cross Cut Sled with Stop Block 2026

After making my table saw fence for my homemade workbench, I realized that I also need to build a crosscut sled as soon as possible.

A crosscut sled is a MUST HAVE FOR every table saw. This accessory makes cross cutting operations much more precise, cleaner and safer.

Reference video of a Cross Cut Sled:

Click to see the Video.

• Download 3D Model
• Block drawings

Materials for our Cross Cut Sled: 

• Plywood board, 21 mm thick
• MDF sheet, 8 mm thick
• U-shaped aluminum profile
• Wood glue
• CA Glue
• T-Track Universal
• Nuts and washers
• Butterfly bolt

Types of tools I used:

• Circular saw
• Router
• Cordless drill
• Hacksaw
• Caliper
• Clamps
• Counterink the drill bit
• Router + Drill Bit Set
• Square ruler
• Self-adhesive measuring tape

Let's build it!

Step 1: Create Miter Slots with a Router

• This is a homemade work table, and I do not have miter slots. So, I created them with a router.
• First, I drew some parallel lines making sure they were square to the front of the table. Holding two pieces of scrap wood as guides will help me make precise cuts.
• The width of the slots is 15 m, and the depth is 10 mm. The diameter of the router bit is 12mm, so I need to make 2 passes to get the desired width.
• I am cutting the aluminum profile into a U shape with a hacksaw and then placing it in the slots. To do that, I pre-drilled some holes and used some countersunk screws since they need to sit flush with the surface.

Step 2: Make hardwood runners and a base

• I am using 8mm thick MDF for the base and cut it 70 by 50cm on my table saw.
• For the runners, I'm using beech, so I'm cutting 2 strips 13mm wide and 8mm thick. I should be able to push the runners from side to side very easily, but I have to be careful because they have to fit into the miter slots without causing side to side movement.
• To secure the runners to the bottom of the base, I'm using some washers to raise them a little higher.
• I will place these runners over the washers, apply wood glue, and place the MDF on top. The goal here is a base that is aligned with the top of the table saw and with the runners as well.
• Once the glue has dried, I turn it over and screw at least 5 countersunk screws into each runner to secure them permanently. I cut the excess length of the runners with a hand saw.

Step 3: Making the back and front fence

• I cut the plywood to the correct length and width and attached the back fence first.

Working on the back fence.

• To secure it to the base, I applied wood glue, placed it on the sled, and clamped it. I want the fence to be flush with the edge of the sled, but it doesn't need to be perfectly square and it doesn't need adjustment, so I'll insert some screws.
• Once this was done, I raised my blade, pushed the sled forward, and made about 80% of the cut across the entire sled.

Working on the front fence.

• The front fence is made of two strips of plywood, one 8 cm wide and the other 6.6 cm wide, as it needs a 21 by 14 mm grid on one of its edges, which I will use to install a stop block on it.
• On the bottom inside edge of this fence I made a small chamfer. It will serve as a dust channel when you are making cuts on the sled.
• It is extremely important that the face guide is square to the blade, so I will get it 90 degrees with the square ruler. After that, I'll clamp it in place, pre-drill and drive two screws to secure the guide in place.
• Then I continue the trimming cut across the entire sled.

Step 4: Apply cutting method 5 to verify squareness

To test the squareness I am going to apply cutting method 5. I took a larger piece of scrap MDF and marked the 4 edges with numbers 1 to 4, then started cutting. I made small cuts on each edge, rotating the MDF piece clockwise. When I returned to the first edge, I made a fifth cut about 2cm wide and removed it. I measured it with a caliper to see the error in the squareness.

Calculations:

• The width of the upper part is 2,490 cm. The width of the bottom is 2,513 cm. I subtracted the bottom from the top and the result is 0.023. I divided it by the 4 angles that are in this rectangle, and the result is 0.00575. I divided this number by the length of my fifth cut, which is 36 cm, and got 0.0001597. I then multiplied that number by the distance between my pivot screw and the point where I'm going to make an adjustment (which is 60cm). I got 0.009582 (or -0.00377 in inches), which is amazing. I'm happy with the result and won't make an adjustment here.

How to make the adjustment?

• If you have a negative number, you should raise your fence on the adjustment side, and if you have a positive number, you should move it down.
• Also, do not reuse the old screw hole. Instead, insert a new countersunk screw to secure the fence.
• To secure the fence to the base completely, I will insert more screws into the bottom.

Step 5: Placing a T-Track on the Front Fence

• Now it's time to attach a T-track for the stop block.
• I used a white aluminum curtain track for this purpose. I cut it to size and used a CA glue to make good contact between the track and the fence.
• After that I secured the track in place with some screws.

Step 6: Add a Blade Guard for Safety

• The blade protrudes from the back when making cross cuts. I cut 3 squares of plywood, glued them together, and glued this blade guard to the front fence with just wood glue.
• This guard will act as a reminder to push the sled from the sides of the guard when cutting.

Step 7: Make an Adjustable Stop Block

• To make repeat cuts possible I made a plywood stop block. It is made up of two parts.
• The first part is made of two pieces of plywood that are glued together. I needed to remove 12x41mm from the table saw. I made 2 holes in this piece because I need to use 2 bolts to connect it to the other part of the stop block and to the T-track.
• The other part is made of 3 pieces of plywood. I made a hole in the smaller one and attached all the pieces together with wood glue and some screws.
• I'm installing the stop block on the T-track, with a bolt and a butterfly. Then, I am connecting the two parts with a longer bolt and the two parts of the stop block and tighten them with washers and rubber seal nuts.

Step 8: How to Attach a Tape Measure to the Front Fence

• The last thing I want to do is apply a tape measure to the front fence. I attached it with a CA glue. To determine the starting point of the tape, I took into consideration the thickness of the stop block.

Step 9: Time for some test cuts

• Now I can make some test cuts to see how it works.
• I can make small cuts, I can also cut larger pieces, and I can also use the stop block to make repeated cuts at a perfect 90 degree angle. Most importantly, I am protected from bribery.

I really like how this Crosscut Sled turned out.

Don't forget to watch the video for a complete explanation. Greetings!

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