Desk and Acrylic Lamp with LED 2026

If you are looking for a novel idea for your bedroom, then you can make this beautiful acrylic desk lamp with LED.

This is a desk lamp made of 1/2″ plywood and acrylic that you can make yourself.

Materials:

• (×2)Birch plywood: Thickness: 1/2 Inch, Dimensions: 12×24 Inch
• Clear Acrylic Sheet: Dimensions: 12× 12 Inches, Thickness: 1/4 Inch, Type: Casting, Backing: Paper

Steps to make an acrylic desk lamp with LED

Step 1: Carving the wooden pieces

Before entering the store, we sat down at the illustrator and designed a lamp made of wood and acrylic with LED as a light source. We then go through the setup process to prepare the x-carve tool for carving. First, we carved 1/2″ plywood to make the lamp base, the arm, and a wooden lid that will hide the LEDs.

To hide all the electronic components, we are making two mirroring halves and sculpting where all the cables, the switch and the adapter will be. That way we can place the electronic components on one side and cover them with the other, making them hidden.

For all the wood pieces we used a 1/8" straight bit for all the carving on the tool. First, we carved the base which turned out perfectly.

Once the first sheet was made, we placed a new 1/2” sheet and sculpted the pieces where the arm will connect to the base, the pieces for the acrylic, and the arm. We leave a link to this file in the description below if you want to make this lamp yourself, please try the easel for the first time. It is a free online software and has a lot of creativity. You can even import your SVG files directly into this program like we did and it works perfectly.

Step 2: Cutting and finishing the wooden pieces

Instead of cutting the parts completely with the CNC, we decided to cut only half of them to save some time. Then we cut them completely with the band saw. Then we can use a flush router bit to clean everything up

Now, on the router table, we first use a flush cut bit to remove the extra bits we left behind when we cut the pieces on the band saw.

Then we used an oscillating belt sander and the disc sander to sand and make the edges smooth. On the base pieces we sanded a small flat section where the switch will stick out, so it will sit nice and won't want to rotate around the rounded side.

Now make the holes for said switch. We used a half inch front drill bit and drilled both pieces as what they would look like when done. To keep them from moving we put them in a vise which worked great.

Step 3: Carving the acrylic

We can finally move on to something we are so excited about. We have never carved acrylic on the x-carve before and are very interested to see how it turns out. Again, use the same 1/8" straight bit to do the roughing step, which is just the outline. Then we switch to a 60 degree v bit for the detail pass. This pass is going to work magic, not only is it bringing our idea to life, but we can also start to see how 3D the design will be.

We are going to do the same process as with the wood and roughly cut the acrylic with the band saw and then move to the router table to rinse it.

And now one of the most satisfying things ever. Peeling all the paper…

We wanted to make the edge of the acrylic where the lights will hit lighten up a bit, so we used a torch to melt the plastic, so to speak, going back and forth very diligently. This method seemed to work pretty well, I'd say.

Step 4: Paste

Always do a dry fit first before gluing, just to be on the safe side. Then we could glue together all the pieces that needed to be matched.

This is the cover for the acrylic after the glue has dried, and here you can place the LEDs flat inside the slot, and where the wire will come out the top and go to the base to connect the switch and power.

After a quick 120-220 sanding on everything, Paul convinced us to do a 1/16" lap on all the pieces. We were a little hesitant at first, because we didn't think it would make much of a difference, but it actually did and now we're converted. Doing this on every project from now on.

Step 5: Finish Application

Finally time to finish. We wanted to keep the wood as natural as possible, so we used lacquer and did two coats on each side and all the edges.

After it dries, we can assemble everything for the first time. The piece that joins the arm to the base is screwed from the bottom. The arm was attached with 1/4 20x1 1/4” bolts and a wing nut so the arm can be adjusted to different angles. The top is attached in the same way with the same size equipment.

Step 6: Wiring

Ready! Now you will have a beautiful acrylic desk lamp with LED, which you can use at any time and give a different look to any home environment.

Now it's time for wiring.

• First we are going to take out a few feet of wire and cut 2 pieces. Using a drill, place the two wires into the chuck and hold the other ends while we twist the wire to create a nice looking coil of wire. This will really dress up the exposed wire in the finished project.
• Next we need to drill a hole for that wire to pass through the bottom plate.
• After passing the wire through the hole, remove the two ends of the wire to prepare for soldering. Before soldering, we hot glue our power pin and plug it into the base.
• Add some solder to the end of the cable to prepare it to connect to the power plug. Adding solder to the end of the wire and to the terminal on the plug will make the connection easier. The first wire is soldered to the ground terminal of the power plug.
• We added a little hot glue over the connection to keep it in place. Pro Tip: Use compressed air to cool the hot glue quickly.
• Now solder the other wire to one terminal of the switch.
• Cut a small piece of wire and solder it to the positive terminal on the power plug and the other end to the other terminal on the switch. Because we added the cable small between the power and the switch, this ensures that the light only comes on when turned on. If we had connected the two cables that came through the base to the power plug, the light would turn on as soon as I plugged it in.
• After making sure the two halves of the base still fit together, we moved on to wiring the light section.
• Pass the wire through the hole in the top of the light cover, strip and add solder to the ends of the wire. We use an LED light strip that can be cut to any length. The last step in wiring is to solder the positive and ground wires to the LED strip.
• After pushing the strip into the hood and adding hot glue to secure the lights and acrylic in place.
• The last step after checking and making sure everything worked was to screw the two halves of the base together.

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