How to Build a Warped Wall Ninja Warrior, this is a guide on how to build a low-cost warped wall. To save space and money, the wall was built against the house to provide solid support and therefore required a minimum of wood.
I wasn't interested in the pull at the top as the main challenge is reaching the top bar. However, to add that feature, you would simply need to build the entire structure further away and add an upper deck.
Step 1: Materials List
- 8 CLS Woods – 38x63x2400mm
- 2 MDF Sheets – 18x1220x2440mm
- 1 Sheet of plywood – 9x1220x2440mm
- White external masonry paint
Step 2: Climate protection

Because keeping things cheap is the name of the game I bought raw wood. It's not normally advisable for outside work, but when you give each surface a generous double coat everything is fine. Even MDF works outdoors once carefully protected.
So the first job was to give my CLS woods a double coat of white paint.
Step 3: Drawing the curve




So a warped wall is 14 feet high and I looked for a curved radius of 10 feet of offset by 1 foot.
For those quick on the calculations, you will notice that two sheets of MDF does not give the required height, but we will only use the limits to complete the top section.
First place the boards in a large area (I used my lawn) in the diagram shown. Then, using a 10-foot piece of string, attach one end to a screwdriver and the other end to a pencil. I left a space of about 80mm from the back of the horizontal and then measured 10 feet.
Then I measured 9 feet above vertical (1 foot offset) and placed my screwdriver in the grass.
This allowed my pencil to rotate on the screwdriver. Using this setting I drew the curve on the wood. I left the screwdriver and pencil in place to finish the curve later once the cuts were made.
Step 4: Cut the curve




This is best done using a jigsaw. Once the curve is cut into each piece, take the cut out piece and use it as a template to draw the mirror image on the same sheet of wood. Then cut it too.
So each of the two sheets will produce two identical sections of the curved wall.
The middle curve section, because it is thinner, will have a larger cut and can be used for the third and final section of the curve.
So using this cut, I placed the bottom and middle curves down on the grass with the cut cut at the top and using the pencil again I drew the final section of the curve taking the wall section up to the final height of 14 feet.
Once again, I cut out the final section and used it as a template to make your mirror image.
All pieces were painted on both sides, two coats for weather protection.
Step 5: Construction




First, I placed the CLS wood on the side of the house. Two lengths separated by 600 mm. It is 600mm wide because you only need one sheet of plywood, cut in half lengthwise to cover the surface of the ramp.
MaintainingLow costs 600mm is all you need to run.
I never felt the need for a wider ramp. Once the CLS lumber is attached to the house, the cut sides of the ramp can be attached.
I made a hole in one of the bottom sections so my boys can use it as a little hiding place.
Once the side is in place, I used the remaining 4 lengths of CLS and cut batons to fit between the sides to support the ramp surface.
I placed the lengths fairly close together near the bottom of the ramp as that is where the most force will be exerted when going up the ramp and increased the spacing significantly as the ramp progressed closer to vertical as there will never be foot placement at that height
Step 6: Add the surface


Cutting the sheet of wood in half lengthwise gives you plenty of scope to cover the entire surface, but I only did it up to 12 feet. This allowed me to have a catch beam at the 12 foot point as well as the 14 foot point as a practice progression.
The plywood sheet is simply screwed onto the sticks and then painted with a double coat.
The siding has proven to be durable, although the 9mm plywood has just been strong enough with the cane placements to withstand the force of the ramp.
I have noticed small splits in the wood on the bottom after a good amount of use. Maybe a little thicker plywood would be advisable, but it will be much harder to bend... So it's a trade-off.
And that's all over. Construction of deformed wall on a budget. Now all I have to do is test my improved skill! Greetings!
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