How to polish and vitrify a wooden floor? Repairing and vitrifying wooden floors is a task that we can do ourselves. Although it may seem like a large job, the method is simple and does not involve complicated techniques, we just have to have enough time and the family's willingness to endure the dust and wait for the vitrified to be completely dry.
In this project a polyurethane vitrifier will be used, it can be used on all types of solid wood floors, whether planks or parquet.
In the installation of parquet there are several installation patterns, but the most common today are herringbone and mosaic, which come from the industrialization of the material by converting them into standard planks, which, unlike in ancient times, each piece of wood had a special and unique size.
Tools:
- Vacuum cleaner
- Scraper
- Paint scraper
- Gouges
- Smooth Plastic Spatula 2″
- Varnish brushes
- Floor polisher
- Edge polisher
1 Glue the loose boards
- To glue loose parquet you can use a plastic glue that leaves a thick and firm adhesive layer on which to seat the loose parquet.

2 Repair holes
- If there are holes or cracks in the wooden boards, they can be filled by making a mixture of the same sawdust or dust that comes from polishing and a little cold glue. Or with virgin wax, which is melted in the hand and spread with a spatula to fill the hole, when it cools it can be sanded and it takes on the tone of the rest of the floor

3 Coarse polishing
- The polishing machine has a roller, where the sandpaper is placed, which rotates at high speed to polish the floor. It starts with the 80 grit sandpaper that makes a coarse polish.
- Pass the sander over the entire surface, doing it in long, straight sections, trying not to stop between each pass so that there are no sanding unevenness.

4 Medium polishing
- Change the sandpaper for one of 100, which will make a finer polish.
- Run the sanding machine over the entire surface again.

5 fine polishing
- Change the sandpaper for one of 120 that will give the finest and final polish.
- Run the sanding machine over the entire surface again.

6 Shore
- The edges and edges of the floor are sanded with the edger, which is a smaller machine with a round disc that reaches all the corners.

7 Scrape out the details
- Use a manual scraper to improve the polishing finish, eliminating stains from the old vitrified or lowering any unevenness. The scraper is quite sharp so you should not use too much force.

8 Clean the dust
- Use a manual scraper to improve the polishing finish, eliminating stains from the old vitrified or lowering any unevenness. The scraper is quite sharp so you should not use too much force.

- Although the polishing machines come with cloth bags where they expel the dust, after finishing sanding you have to vacuum the entire floor and the edge very well with the dust covers.
- Complement the cleaning by wiping with a damp cloth to absorb any stuck-on dust.

Apply first coat
- Dilute the vitrifier in 50% mineral spirits and with a wide brush apply the first layer of polyurethane vitrifier. Let dry for 24 hours.

Gentle sanding
- Once the first layer is dry, with 400 grit sandpaper, polish the floor to remove any hair or lint.

Apply the other layers
- Dilute the polyurethane vitrifier with a maximum of 10% mineral spirits and apply 2 more coats.
- Between each coat, let it dry for 24 hours and remove any lint with 400 grit sandpaper.

Waiting time
- Transit the vitrified floor only after 48 hours and move the furniture after 5 days.

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