Plus-size fashion took center stage at London's Victoria and Albert Museum as Sinéad O'Dwyer presented a groundbreaking runway show open to the public for just £5. The event celebrated body diversity with models of all shapes and sizes, challenging the industry's long-standing preference for thin bodies. O'Dwyer's work, which has won awards and fans like Cardi B and Björk, uses size 18 samples instead of the typical size 4-8.
The Rise of Inclusive Fashion on the Runway
O'Dwyer's show featured performers and models wearing everything from underwear to skirt suits and sequins, with interpretive dance to music by Jeanie and The White Boys. This inclusive approach stands in stark contrast to mainstream luxury fashion, which O'Dwyer says "doesn't really want everyone." The event's £5 ticket price made it accessible to the public, further emphasizing her brand's ethos of inclusivity.
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For a few years, the fashion industry showed signs of embracing body diversity. In 2023, Paloma Elsesser became the first plus-size model of the year at the Fashion Awards. However, progress has stalled. According to the Size Inclusivity Report by Vogue Business, 97.6% of models in autumn/winter 2026 were "straight-size" (UK 4-8).
Historical Context of Body Ideals in Fashion
Fashion's focus on thinness has been controversial since the early 20th century. Women's bodies have been subject to trends: slight with small busts in the flapper 1920s, slender and leggy in the youth-obsessed 1960s, athletic and curvy in the aerobic 1980s. The current rollback to thinness is seen as part of a wider shift away from diversity. Stylist Jeanie Annan-Lewin notes, "It coincided with Trump coming into power. There are fewer people of any minority across the board and that’s the same thing that’s happening in fashion."
Key Data: Size Inclusivity in Fashion Shows
The following table compares size representation in recent fashion seasons, based on Vogue Business data:
| Season | Straight-Size Models | Plus-Size Models | Change From Previous Season |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spring/Summer 2023 | 95.2% | 4.8% | +1.2% |
| Autumn/Winter 2024 | 96.5% | 3.5% | -1.3% |
| Autumn/Winter 2026 | 97.6% | 2.4% | -1.1% |
Takeaways for a More Inclusive Fashion Industry
Sinéad O'Dwyer's show is a powerful reminder that inclusivity is possible when brands prioritize it. Here are key lessons:
- Sample sizes matter – Using size 18 samples ensures clothes fit a wider range of bodies on the runway.
- Public access – £5 tickets and open events make fashion shows more democratic and break elitist barriers.
- Celebrity support – High-profile fans like Cardi B and Björk amplify the message of body diversity.
- Ongoing need for change – Despite past progress, the industry still overwhelmingly favors thin models; consumers must demand better.
FAQ
What is Sinéad O'Dwyer known for in fashion?
Sinéad O'Dwyer is an award-winning Irish designer known for championing size inclusivity on the runway, using size 18 sample garments and featuring models of all shapes and sizes.
Why is 97.6% of the runway still straight-size?
The Vogue Business Size Inclusivity Report shows that despite past gains, the fashion industry has rolled back diversity efforts, coinciding with broader cultural and political shifts away from minority representation.
How can I support plus-size fashion?
Support designers like Sinéad O'Dwyer who prioritize inclusivity, attend public runway shows, and demand that major brands feature diverse body types in their advertising and runway collections.
Sinéad O'Dwyer's show at the V&A Museum is a beacon of hope for body diversity in fashion. While the industry faces headwinds, events like this prove that inclusive fashion is not only possible but commercially viable. The next time you see a runway, ask yourself: who is missing from the catwalk?