Guide and Measurements to Make a Great and Resistant PVC Table! 2026

Guide and Measurements to Make a Great and Sturdy PVC Table, can be used for anything, such as craft tables, dinner tables, lightweight desks or for garage sales or even as a "kids table." It depends entirely on you.

Step 1: Tools

The tools needed for this table are quite simple:

• You need something to cut the PVC pipe with, a saw or an electric saw.
• A power drill or electric screwdriver to attach the table plugs to the underside of the table.
• You will need at least fifteen (15) 1-1/4″ to 1-1/2″ long threaded screws and drywall screw inserts. Inserts are not always necessary, but will sometimes be used to make sure the table tops are secure to the table.
• PVC cement to ensure the consistency of all pipes and fittings. These parts will never be separated again. Or you can use small 1/2″ screws between the pipe and fittings if PVC cement is not to your liking.

Step 2: Pieces

Selection of parts for a PVC construction. You can also get these on Amazon.

These are the pieces:

• 5 x 1-1/4″ PVC External Caps (F114EEC)
• 5 x 1-1/4″ PVC Board Caps (F114ECT)
• 4 x 1-1/4″ 4-Way Union (F1144WT)
• 4 x 1-1/4″ Regular PVC Backing (F114TEE)
• 2 x 1-1/4″ PVC Crosses (F114CRX)

I used plumbing pipe to keep costs down, as shipping furniture grade pipe, although much more attractive, rugged and strong, can be expensive. The pipes are 10', with a total of four (4) poles used (or 40 feet). The pipe was cut to the following lengths and quantities:

• A quantity of five (5) 3″ lengths.
• A quantity of ten (10) 12″ lengths.
• A quantity of four (4) 20″ long.
• A quantity of four (4) 30″ long.

Step 3: Assembly: Side 1

For the assembly steps, I'm going to show you how most things go together in my draft drawings, instead of showing you our sad, dirty engineering office we were moving into.  With that... Let's start:

Side 1: Assembly

The first thing you need to do is assemble the first of the two sides of the PVC frame with the Tees, 4-Way Fabrics, End Caps and Board Caps, as shown in the attached photo. Fitting placement is in BLACK, and the pipe size to be used is shown in RED. This will be 'Side 1', or the left side of the table. I recommend a dry fit first, THEN separate everything and reassemble with PVC cement. As many of you know, once you apply PVC cement, it will not separate again.

Apply the PVC cement to the inside of the fitting only at the “stop” point of the fitting. Make sure things are inserting as they should, then press the pipe into the fitting and hold for 30 seconds to secure the joint.

• NOTE: Most people will tell you to apply it to the end of the PVC pipe and the inside of the fitting, but I have found that this is not necessary.
• THE AFTERMATH: If you do not want to use PVC cement (as it is harmful indoors), use a screw between where the pipe and fitting meet to secure them in place.
• GOOD HEAVEN, ANOTHER NOTE: I tried to align the plumbing pipe markings so they were facing the back of the table (the back is where the 4-way brackets are).

Step4: Mounting: Side 2

The next step is exactly the same as above, however, you want to build your 'Side 2' or the right side of the table as a mirror image of Side 1, so that the 4-way supports are facing the other direction, when you are at the back.

Attached is another diagram showing pipe and fitting location, with pipe in RED and fittings in BLACK.

Step 5: Assembly: Rear

Now it's time to build the 'Black' table, which is pretty simple. For this step, you will need a Table Plug, an External Plug, and two cross joints, both of which should not have been used yet. Assemble them, along with the 30″ long tubes to make something that looks like it belongs on the top of a telephone pole.

When assembling the 'center post' with PVC cement, place it on the floor so that everything is flat and its pipe is parallel.

Step 6: Assembly: Complete Union

Now it's time to put everything together (PVC related).

Insert the ends of the pipes from the back into each of the Side 1 and Side 2 elements to end up with something shown in the diagram. Again, I recommend a dry fit to make sure everything is aligned before applying PVC cement. Once you are comfortable with the dry fit, separate them and apply PVC cement to the fittings on Side 1, and insert the Black pipes into the 4-way joints on Side 1. Quickly make sure everything is sitting square. Press together and wait 30 seconds.

Then, apply PVC cement on the fittings on Side 2 and insert the Black tubes, repeat the procedure of Side 1, press and wait 30 seconds.

Step 7: Assembly: Table

The problem with hollow core doors:

• Hollow core doors are constructed with an outer frame and several slats that extend (when standing) along the horizontal plane of the door. The rest of the area between these slats is filled with cardboard (seriously), foam, or just nothing.
• Since we can't see where those slats are, I found that it's a vague scenario as to where our table toppers will end up stuck to the board (table), whether it's a slat or a fluffy piece of cardboard. Wherever it is cardboard, we want to use a drywall insert, to attach the cap to the wood or door wall.

Finally, insert the screws into the table tops and board/screw inserts.

Step 8: Completed

Finally, flip the table and you should have your table ready (if I've explained myself correctly). A fully functional, large and resistant table.

You can finish the table with paint if you wish. We choose to keep ours "natural."

Customizing

As with any project involving PVC and found parts, you can make any adjustments to suit your particular needs.

The table boards have shorter lengths, so you can easily change the length of the pipe segments from 30″ to 24″ or 28″ to accommodate shorter doors.

You can also increase the height of the table by increasing the 3″ piping under the table plugs, to make a table that is more suitable for the height ofl counter or foot.

I hope you enjoyed this article!

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