Despite its relative youth (1992), Bell&Ross has been able to create a market niche that could be said to be "extreme": pilot watches taken directly from the instrument panel. Something not easy considering that these elements are usually square and of considerable size, but it has been precisely those characteristics that the brand has taken advantage of to find its place in a quite saturated watchmaking universe. After air, the other two elements soon arrived: water and earth, and between all of them (even in the BR-02!) there is a common thread that keeps them in the family. Another common element in the Bell&Ross collections has been the sporty seal: in square or round shapes, practically all the models evoke a sporty aspect that a priori excludes them from formal or, if you like, "urban" attire.
After all these years, the “groundbreaking” vein that inspired Bruno Belamich (the B of Bell & Ross) when designing and presenting his watches is still recognizable. And I believe that it has been that same vein that has guided him when creating a new family within his already extensive collection. The BR-05 series, presented in September but already previewed to some eyes at Baselworld 2019, leaves no one indifferent. The Bell & Ross BR-05 aims, in the brand's own words, at the urban user and "exceeds the rigor of the square and transcends the perfection of the circle"... It also says that it maintains the commitment to "legibility, functionality, reliability and precision." Good. I spoke of a "breaking vein." And maybe I should have said "provocative", because what we see in the Bell & Ross BR-05 is a complete provocation.
But all in time. What I bring today is a review or collective review. Something like what they call “hands on” in English, but with more hands. In addition to having a good time with friends, it serves to obtain points of view different from your own and - if applicable - balance that vision. Thanks to Bell&Ross Spain we have up to three models of the Bell & Ross BR-05 including the skeleton, only missing the rose gold version and one of the steel models, the one with a gray dial.
The caliber that animates the entire Bell & Ross BR-05 series has two denominations depending on where it is installed: the BR-CAL.321 is found in all models except for the skeletonized one (series limited to 500 pieces), whose name is BR-CAL.322. Both are variations of the Sellita SW-300, and feature a nice openwork oscillating weight that allows the movement to be seen through the back. In the skeleton it can also be seen from the front... although not much else is seen.
In the construction section, it must be said that the Bell & Ross BR-05 is superbly executed: the machining and polishing (both brushed and mirror) are on par with what can be expected from a watch of its price. The bracelet comes with two link sizes that allow you to adjust the length, but it lacks micro-adjustment with the inconvenience that this entails.
The closure is a butterfly closure with two safety buttons, which must be pressed simultaneously to release it. Aesthetically good, but it poses a technical and a functional problem. In the technical section, and despite the conical shape of the housing, it would seem that prolonged use can lead to wear of the lugs that are inserted into the holes for this purpose, unless said action is carried out by pressing the buttons also simultaneously. As for the functional part, the fact that the logo requires a certain order when closing each part makes it somewhat cumbersome, at least until you get used to it.
On the case we find up to eight good-sized screws (there are two more in the crown guards) and, while the four on the dial part are perfectly aligned in two of the three cases, it is not the one that closes the back, which leads me (us) to think that the first ones have a more aesthetic than functional function. The good execution of the two types of polishing, both on the case and on the bracelet, contribute to the overall perception of a quality watch. Good lighting.
Regarding the crown there was unanimity: it is small. And since it is threaded, it is quite difficult to handle, especially if we want to ensure that it is well closed (100 meters of watertightness). And the guards don't exactly help. The crystal, made of flat sapphire with anti-reflective treatment, protrudes slightly from the case, which in general opinion leaves the edge exposed to possible lateral impacts.
The spheres are sober (two black, one blue and one gray, plus the skeleton). The indices and figures, although they respect the usual Bell & Ross code (large figures, long indices), have undergone a transformation that, by shortening the indices, flattening the figures and rounding everything, brings them very close to what another brand with many more years behind it - Panerai - has almost as a letter of introduction. And it's not the only thing.
I stop here to remember one of the names that shines with its own light in the world of watchmaking. The Swiss designer Gerald Genta, who died in 2011, is the father of many of the most iconic pieces of many brands, especially highlighting two models: the Royal Oak for Audemars Piguet and the Nautilus for Patek Philippe. In addition to being the pioneers in using steel for a luxury watch, they are two designs that any watch fan recognizes from many meters away. But what makes them extraordinary is that they also attract the attention of the uninitiated thanks to their timeless lines, which keep them current almost fifty years after they saw the light. For those who don't know them:
I return now to theprovocative veinthat I mentioned at the beginning: the Bell & Ross BR-05 is *very* reminiscent of those two models, and it is impossible that an experienced designer like Monsieur Bellamich has not noticed. Starting with the bracelet, which alternates nuanced H-shaped links with others that act as mirror-polished links, and continuing with the integration between that same bracelet and the case. It could be said that there are many designs with these characteristics, but if we combine them with the hands that the Bell & Ross BR-05 presents (and which would be valid for any of the two just mentioned) and the indices (at least for one) we come to the conclusion that coincidences do not exist. At least as many together. I will not go into detail about the hidden closure of the bracelet - common to the two mentioned although never before used by Bell&Ross - as it is a much more widespread element, but given what has been seen, it does not seem coincidental.
Already placed inconspiracy modeCould it be a coincidence that we called the caliber 321 the same year that Omega presents the reissue of its legendary caliber of the same name? In the end. The sensations of the attendees: good finishes and therefore good perceived quality. Not so much regarding the design, weighed down by those "reasonable similarities." For some the Bell&Ross BR-05 is "daring", for others "a hodgepodge" and to the majority it does not seem accomplished. Readability is good thanks to a clean dial... except in the case of the skeleton: there it becomes really difficult to locate the hands at first glance unless we are looking at it in dim light and with the Luminova activated. Since the main function of a watch is to tell the time - beyond projecting status - the skeleton reverses that order: first exclusivity as it is a limited series and as a secondary function indicates a time that is difficult to read.
Where there was unanimity was in comfort: the watch sits well on a wrist from 17cm in circumference, although the possibility of micro-adjusting the bracelet is missing, and the obligation to have to close the clasp by order (the logo, you know) does not convince anyone.
The prices, €4,500 for the unlimited series and €5,900 for the skeletonized version (€500 less in each case if it is with a rubber strap instead of a bracelet), are within what could be expected from the brand. But the general feeling was that they are high, especially if we take into account (and probably the average Bell & Ross customer does not) that it has a very little modified caliber, oscillating mass aside. And the most important thing: that in that price range the offer is quite wide and, except for the unconditional, the dealer is going to have to do a very good job of convincing. There is a rose gold version (€29,900 with bracelet and €19,900 with rubber) which for easy to understand reasons we could not have available.
It's an old communication adage: there is no bad publicity, the important thing is that you are talked about. It is also true that what a community - or even a group - of watch fans may think is not going to influence too much either the brands' decisions or - perhaps - their sales.
But someone had to say it.
bellross.com
