Rolex Polished or unpolished? 2026

I link to my previous article to show those beautiful sticker watches and will make some comments as to the condition of said watches. I do not want to give a lecture, I do not even hope that you can determine whether a watch has been polished or not polished, since as we will see it is not an easy task. I'll settle for you to be a little distracted reading these lines and if you learn something, even better. I will intersperse photos in my text to make it more enjoyable.

GMT Master 16700It has the sticker on the cover but this does not guarantee that it has not been polished. A detailed examination of the box allows us to conclude that it has been detailed more than once.

The topic of polishing raises controversies, creates confusion, gives rise to tremendous price variations and quite a few deceptions. And in the world of Rolex, the same watch can radically change its value depending on whether it has been polished or not. From now on I will refer interchangeably as polishing or detailing to the attempt to return the case and/or bracelet to its original state through mechanical processes (polishing, brushing, laser welding).

Two Tudor Oysterdate 74020 NOS. Two shiny Tudor watches. These parts can be referred to as “NOS (New Old Stock) condition”. Since although they are unused and even had the labels, they have not been acquired from the original store but from an intermediary. A true NOS piece would have to have never been sold, never been used, and never left the store that originally sold it.

The thing is that in a vintage Rolex, it is very difficult to determine with certainty whether it has been detailed or not... we only have to do an analysis of what is seen and classify its condition based on certain categories. Anyone who claims that a watch has not been polished, and does not know the true history of the piece, can get into trouble, either when buying or eventually selling.

Rolex Submariner 5513. No words with this watch. It is two or three scratches away from being in “NOS Condition”.

Tudor Advisor 10050. This watch appears to have never been touched, look at the vertical brushing on the lugs. Photo: Watches by SJX.

It is best to speak in relative terms. I look at several watches every week and I usually say: “I don't think it has more than one polish” when I think a watch is unpolished but I can't say for sure. You have to take off the pressure of finding the unpolished Grail. Let's start from the rule that almost the majority of vintage watches have been retouched at some point in their life.

Rolex Day Date 18238. Obviously retouched, but the dial is very beautiful, in the very rare coral tone and with diamonds, a highly sought-after piece by collectors. Photo: Rolex Passion Report

You also have to understand that not all watches look good unpolished. A very battered Datejust doesn't look good, my recommendation is to give it a little (or big) review.

A vintage Submariner with a lot of use but with the original finish you should not touch it, it is a tool watch. A poorly polished watch must be polished again to Rolex specifications and thus hundreds of exceptions and conditions.

Tudor Date Day 7020 1969. Another New Old Stock. These two escaped me. They were purchased at a sale. Photo: Vintage Rolex Forum

In the opinion of this writer, the condition of a watch's case will increasingly be imposed on that of its dial and hands. I think that the fever for tropical dials with a uniform patina is going to subside in favor of a robust, unpolished case. The reason is that dial manipulations are also difficult to discover, but in any case it is possible to find an original dial on the used parts market, but an unpolished case is not circulating there. End of story.

Este Submariner 16610LV, with the sharpest edges I have ever seen. The brushing, with a certain rough texture on the handles, something typical of the finishes of the time. Unpolished watch:

A beautifulRolex 16600 Sea Dwellerwith the most attractive patina and very complete box! Despite the excellent condition, this watch has been serviced to remove any superficial marks.

The best ally to determine the degree of polishing of a watch is the brushing of the lugs but especially the space between them. It is the confessional of Rolex watches. It is impossible to lie there. An immaculate watch with visible marks between the lugs (bracelet rubbing, corrosion, bracelet tampering) is a sure sign that it has been polished.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona Zenith 16528. Fabulous Cosmograph that has been detailed before more than once, for sure. Photo: Watchpool24

Tudor Submariner 79090. Almost intact watch, but it is common for this type of watch to be given a minimal inspection to eliminate superficial marks. Photo: Chrono24

This is not a crime, I have had watches polished many times. The problem comes when this is not clearly stated in the event of a possible sale. Sometimes it is an unintentional error. Sometimes it is not so it is a hoax.

Rolex Day Date Oysterquartz 19018. Too bad a watch, bad brushing! The Oysterquartz case is very difficult to work with. Photo: Internet

It is very common to see hobbyists who have paid sums that correspond to untouched watches and have purchased a refurbished or detailed piece from start to finish. You have to be attentive. Especially since many sellers use the description “unpolished” lightly and sometimes go beyond “NOS”. Some cases border on the ridiculous.

Rolex Explorer 1016. With obvious signs of polishing, very beautiful in any case. Photo: Internet

Rolex Day Date 1803. This watch has been masterfully polished at Rolex. The slightly “grainy” brushing is true to the period, becoming finer in later years. A 10 for the polishing of this piece! Photo: HQMilton

Regarding the monetary value or price of an intact piece vs. a polished one, it varies greatly depending on the piece in question, so it is not possible to establish a rule. The answer is “it depends.”

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6265 in gold.Incredible watch, it seems to have not been polished thanks to the dark patina that it has acquired over time. Impressive collector's item. Photo: Perugia Watches

A military diver in NOS condition (or almost) is worth much less than one who has gone to war. Just as an employee's COMEX is nowhere near the value of one who has had 500 hours of diving.

Tudor Submariner 9401. Superb Submariner, perhaps Tudor's ideal Sub (Snowflake undated). In perfect condition, both case and dial. However, it has been polished. Photo: Watches by SJX

A polished Daytona is not as detracting as a retouched Submariner. Neither aesthetically nor in price... The Daytona is worth more for its dial than for its case. . A nice piece. They have given it more than one review for sure. Photo: HQMilton

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263 from 1987. Impressive watch! Achieving it today borders on the impossible. Photo Hodinkee.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 6263. Another legendary Cosmograph, from The Emirates. In a truly enviable condition, the photos do not allow us to see much, but I would say that it does not have more than a polish. Photo: Rolex Passion Report

A Tudor Homeplate or Monte Carlo, with its square crown guards, had better all be scratched but unmodified, because a slight roundness in its angles destroys this reference. Even more so than service buttons or a damaged bezel. The latter have a remedy, the thinned box does not.

Tudor Big Blockwith some use. This Tudor Big Block is definitely portentous, and yet it has probably been polished once. Photo: Internet

Otro Tudor Big Block, this in almost NOS condition. Another unused piece, but purchased from a middleman. It is a “NOS condition”, not being NOS as I have already explained. There are no signs of polishing, it certainly could have been refinished to remove the typical handling marks in the store. How I regret having missed this piece that sold in minutes for 8000 euros. Photo: The Watch Guy GmbH & Co

Well, that's it with the topic. There are many more chapters, but unfortunately space is limited and I don't want to abuse the patience of my readers.

Until another time, which will be very soon!