Since the presentation of the new Rolex models to which my good friends Jon and Alberto from Rabat kindly invited me (yes, Alberto S. now in Rabat!) I wanted to do a proper Hands On of mine. It is not easy to do a good analysis of a piece the day it is presented, however I was able to look at practically all the models that May 4th. Even so, I preferred to wait until I had more time and better lighting conditions, in fact I did it in two subsequent sessions and here you can see the result of my Hands On with the new mixed Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603
The Sea-Dweller is a very special niche model from Rolex. Based on the Submariner, it is a model that has made few concessions to the luxury that its younger brother has allowed itself. Suffice it to say that the appearance of the magnifying glass on the 2017 model made several fans raise their hands.
Having enjoyed several Sea-Dwellers before, I was very curious to see how Rolex resolved the launch of its most tool watch wrapped in a suit of shine and sophistication with just the right dose of scoundrel.
The younger ones will probably rant about a mixed SD. Or any mixed one, for that matter. For a server they are one more option, which has its space and its reason for being. I don't mind gold at all, I don't wear it more frequently for safety reasons (be careful!) because not even the price is an impediment right now, given how much steel sports Rolexes cost. I will write about this fact at some point since it is a very topical topic.
Getting down to business, what strikes me most in all new Rolexes is the perfection in execution. There are practically no details to improve. Rolex manufacturing continues to be one of the best, it is difficult to have this perfection in watches of this RRP (let's not talk about the gray market).
And boy, there is tremendous know-how here and indecently perfect manufacturing capabilities. If we add to this an immortal and ultra-imitated design (never equaled), we have a classic. In fact you could say that all sports watches that come out of Rolex become instant classics. That's what it means to be faithful to a concept for so many decades.
Look at these macros and judge for yourself:
Let's look at these extensions. The numbers on the bezel look spongy, 3D, but no. They are polished flush!
The combination of steel and gold, which Rolex has called Rolesor since the 1930s, is somewhat difficult to photograph, but if you do it, there is no doubt that it is beautiful.
The details on the dial are interesting. The Submariner has a shiny black dial, but the mixed Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603 has a matte black dial instead. In the case of this version, at certain times the black turns a bit dark brown. Look at this comparison with the GMT Master II steel:
We continue with the dial and we can see the indices and the hands have a slightly vanilla tone. Something unusual for Rolex (it's more Tudor) but which feels really good on this watch. An intense white would have somewhat ruined the warmth of the whole.
And that, as a whole, is the best thing about this watch. There is something that works really well. It doesn't scream 10 meters away, here I am. It is a balanced set, but it does attract attention. Just enough to say, "I'm into gold but above all sports and I am something different from the rest."
On the wrist it maintains that sporty-sophisticated touch with that rogue air of mixed Rolexes. It is not a watch for what you are afraid of what people will say. So it is a watch that suits me well.
The new mixed Rolex Sea-Dweller 126603 is yet another example of Rolex perfection. It is a powerful watch. Its 43mm is not hidden but it is so well designed that you cannot feel it. On my 19.5mm right wrist it fits quite well I would say. Maybe on the left of 18.5 I would head a little. I'm not one for big watches, but this one is great.
There will never be a watch like that original Sea-Dweller 1665 from the 60s. This is not intended to be. For 14,850 euros it costs a little less than a white 1665 in decent condition and much less than a steel Rolex sports car, one of the most sought after on the gray market. If you like the SD 1665 or 1666 and can afford this mix, you also have two watches for all occasions and the best of two worlds.
In my opinion, mixed watches, led by Rolex, are having a Phoenix-like rebirth. Given the difficulty of accessing a steel model, customers are discovering the benefits of this configuration. The 2018 GMT Master II Rolesor Everose already set the standard in this regard. That is a nearly perfect watch.
Frankly, I can't think of a better piece to wear with a pristine, long-sleeved white shirt. And if it's a black silk one, even better. Mixed is the new steel. Definitely.
I thank Rabat again for their attention, especially Alberto and Jon, who make me feel at home every time I visit them and it is a pleasure to see how they do the same with every person who comes to their store.
