M&S selling crotchless underwear from Ann Summers has ignited online outrage, but this bold move is a calculated retail strategy. The UK's biggest underwear retailer is evolving beyond its traditional image to capture younger demographics and expand its brand portfolio. This isn't just about shock value—it's about staying competitive in a rapidly changing market.
The Strategic Shift Behind M&S's Underwear Expansion
Marks & Spencer has long been a household name for everyday essentials, especially underwear. However, the introduction of third-party brands like Ann Summers marks a significant departure from its own-label dominance. This move, part of the 'brands at M&S' strategy, aims to offer customers greater choice and tap into new market segments.
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According to retail consultant Catherine Shuttleworth, this is a natural progression. "They've started introducing brands to bring them into sectors that probably isn't their core," she says. "And this is another one. It's just a little bit more eye-catching." By adding Ann Summers, M&S is signaling that it can cater to diverse tastes without alienating its loyal customer base.
Why Crotchless Underwear Is a Calculated Risk
The backlash on social media has been predictable, with terms like 'tawdry' and 'S&M' thrown around. Yet, M&S has a history of innovating its underwear line, from period pants to stoma-friendly designs. This latest addition is simply another step in normalizing a wider range of intimate apparel.
The retailer's focus on younger shoppers is evident. In 2024, customers under 30 accounted for a third of underwear sales—double the previous year. Partnering with Ann Summers, a brand synonymous with sex appeal, directly appeals to this demographic. As Shuttleworth notes, "Ann Summers is a byword for sex, isn't it?" This collaboration fills a gap in M&S's category while reinforcing its commitment to innovation.

Comparing M&S's Underwear Evolution
To understand the significance, let's compare traditional M&S offerings with the new third-party brands:
| Product Type | Traditional M&S | Ann Summers Collaboration |
|---|---|---|
| Style | Full-brief, high-waist | Crotchless, lace, bold |
| Target Audience | All ages, core loyalty | Under 30, fashion-forward |
| Marketing Tone | Comfort, reliability | Empowerment, sensuality |
| Brand Perception | Mumsy, trusted | Sexy, daring |
This table illustrates the strategic pivot: while maintaining its core, M&S is broadening its appeal to stay relevant.
Key Takeaways for Retailers and Consumers
- Brand evolution is essential for survival in competitive retail markets.
- Third-party partnerships can fill gaps in a retailer's own product range.
- Younger demographics respond to authentic, bold brand collaborations.
- Public outrage often dissipates when the strategy proves successful commercially.
M&S's move is not just about selling underwear; it's about repositioning the brand for future growth. By embracing diversity in its product offerings, the retailer is ensuring it remains a 'national obsession' for generations to come.