Inventor of the “Eterna Matic” (five-ball bearing, hence its logo) in the rotor of automatic movements, Eterna recovers its status as an ancient manufacture by creating the base caliber 39, with which by adding different complications it can combine up to 88 different movements. The base movement, which in its simplest form is manually wound and displays hours and minutes, owes its versatility to the unique modular design, allowing for simple and efficient integration of additional components.
Furthermore, the enormous potential of the caliber lies in standardized production and optimized assembly, which guarantees excellent quality. Like all other versions of the movement, the Eterna Adventic GMT's caliber 3914A is chronometer rated, has a 68-hour power reserve, and is equipped with Spherodrive.
The new Eterna Adventic GMT houses a 39 base movement equipped with automatic winding, a date window at 3 o'clock, a small seconds at 9 o'clock and a second time zone at 6 o'clock. In the latest version of the Adventic GMT, the seconds and GMT hands are a deep orange color that creates a link with the light brown of the ostrich skin strap. In contrast, the anthracite dial is reduced to the essentials: elegant straight indexes are distributed across an outer ring whose discreet circular decoration is repeated in the center of the two sub-dials. The simple design of the main hands, also finished in anthracite and coated with white SuperLuminova, perfectly complements maximum readability. The 42-millimeter polished steel case with its rounded bezel and the case decorated with five parallel lines are perfectly complemented by the fluted crown that is easy to grip and manipulate and shows off the House's five trademark dials.
I couldn't say if it is due to the recent crisis, the long-announced Swatch Group notice to cut off supplies to “strangers” or a combination of both reasons, but the fact is that we are facing a new era of in-house calibers if by in-house we mean designed expressly by or for the brand as opposed to pulling from the ETASA catalogue.
Eterna, which was originally a manufacturing company, already announced its intentions a long time ago when it presented the systemSpherodrive en su caliber 3000and it still had the Porsche Design license, a brand with which it impressed the sector by showing the first centesimal window chronograph. Much has changed since then: in 2011 Eterna was purchased by China Haidan, a business conglomerate that in 2013 would also take over ownership of Corum. In 2014 Porsche Design announced the end of its relationship with Eterna.
Price €3,800
www.eterna.com
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