Like every year since 2001, the Foundation of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has failed itsGPHG awards 2016in different categories. The goal of the GPHG Foundation is to contribute, through its seal, to the promotion of Swiss watchmaking and its values throughout the world. For this reason, it annually organizes the competition that bears its name, to reward the best creations and recognize representatives of the watchmaking sector. The award ceremony is held in November of each year at the Grand Théâtre de Genève, but since you are going to find all the information on the Foundation's own website, I prefer to tell youHow I see the 2016 GPHG Awardsand make my own comments about the award-winning watches, since I have been lucky enough to be able to try on most of them – although not all – in recent months.
Grand Prix Aguille d'Or
Starting with the main prize,the Grand Prix Aguille d’Or, which this year has gone to the CHRONOMÈTRE FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.Although it seemed impossible, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard and true alma mater of fine watchmaking within the brand, has achieved a new milestone in his pursuit of excellence. It was he who created the L.U.C label. (Louis Ulysse Chopard) and who has now gone one step further with this technical prodigy made up of more than 1,120 pieces if we count those that make up the chain that measures 28 centimeters! And it is wound on the spindle which allows it to maintain a constant force throughout the load, not to mention the turbine and the operation of the seconds hand controlled from it by an additional wheel... can you tell that it left me impressed? It is no wonder, and if it looks elegant on the wrist, it has it all. The only drawback is that only 50+50 units will be made at the modest price of 220,000 euros.
Ladies watch award
The 2016 GPHG award for women's watches has been won – once again – by Piaget. The Limelight Galawith a milanese and a bezel set with diamonds, it is not a watch that I am going to wear often (never, actually) but having it in hand (at the SIHH 2016) one cannot help but recognize this brand not only as a jeweler but also capable of making the flattest mechanical movements in the world, with thicknesses below a millimeter... although in this case we are talking about a quartz one and not exactly thin. A bit disappointing – horologically speaking – for a price of 37,300 Swiss francs.
Award for the “high mechanics” ladies' watch
The 2016 GPHG “high mechanics” award for women, something like a non-quartz watch-for-ladies… has gone to the Cat’s Eye Tourbillon with Gold Bridge by Girard Perregaux.I don't have a live photograph, but the description is impressive (also): in addition to the mandatory brilliant-cut diamonds (sixty-four. Fifty in the case and bezel and fourteen in the buckle, to remember when we change the strap), it mounts a GP09700-0012 caliber with a tourbillon under a gold bridge at 21,600 vibrations/hour... and it only has 174 components. Of course, all finished by hand. The dial is made of mother-of-pearl, also hand-sculpted with floral motifs. White gold case and buckle. Price: CHF 132,000
Men's watch award
El mejor reloj para caballero (¿habría que decir «de hombre»?) presentado ha sido para una marca no-suiza: Los holandeses Gronefeld, hermanos ellos e hijos y nietos a su vez de relojeros, están labrádose un sólido prestigio entre los aficionados. El Gronefeld 1941 Remontoire,Limited to 188 pieces, it also applies the concept of remontoire (or constant force), which basically consists of maintaining the force-force curve throughout the life of the watch winding in each load, which allows the amplitude of the balance to be constant from the first minute to the last, when a specific mechanism detects the end of said winding and stops the entire movement. On the dial part you can see - at 9 o'clock - the brake that rotates every 8 seconds to mitigate the collision of the train of wheels when that occurs.
I was able to photograph it at the last Baselworld fair, and the truth is that its finishes are on par with any candidate for such an award. Of course, I was so enthralled in the back that I had to borrow the front photo... 58,880 Swiss francs and you could be one of the 188 lucky owners.
Award for best chronograph
The award for best GPHG chronograph 2016 has gone to the Montblanc Crono 1858 Limited Edition Tachygraph.Since Jerome Lambert (former CEO of JLC) took over the brand, a lot of things have happened, almost all of them good. One of them is that Montblanc's watch section has experienced an unprecedented boom, something that was relatively easy from the moment it was awarded Minerva, the legendary chronograph maison, but that needed to be in the right hands. I was able to photograph it last SIHH 2016, although incomprehensibly I missed that back.
The single-pulse Crono 1858 (everything is controlled, start, stop and reset from the same sequential button) is inspired by a 1930 model and its caliber, which occupies 44mm in diameter, features - of course - a column wheel and a horizontal disc clutch... about which we will have to look for information. In any case, a beautiful piece of steel with a beautiful blue on its dial that, contrary to what Montblanc had been advocating (prices contained in luxury watches) will cost 25,000 euros, although seeing that back it justifies almost everything...
Best Turbillon Award
The award for the best GPHG turbillon 2016 has gone to La Esmeralda, the way that Girard Perregaux chose to celebrate its 225th anniversary, reissuing a watch – now in bracelet format – that bore the name of the jewelry store that marketed it in Mexico in 1864 and that ended up sold to General Porfirio Díaz, president of the country. Thus, the three bridges, so characteristic of Girard Perregaux, are not a modern invention but rather an arrangement that the genius and obsession of Constant Girard led him to create in 1860 and patent definitively in 1884.
About the piece, well what can I say. I had the opportunity to try it on not even a week ago and it is spectacular. Not only because of the three gold bridges and what they support - a tourbillon whose case is made up of 80 parts, or the barrel with 60 hours of operation and the rotor that hides just behind it - but because of the level of the finishes, entirely by hand. In fact, I participated in a polishing mini-master-class (thanks, Tomás Colomer) that helped me realize how difficult it is to achieve that level of perfection (or even less!). It can be purchased for 194,000 Swiss francs.
Calendar Complication Award
MB&F, Maximilian Busser & Friends, with its Legacy Machine Perpetual, has taken the 2016 GPHG award for calendar complication.I must admit that, beyond the perfection of their work, their designs left me a bit cold, I don't know if it's because they seemed excessive to me or because they simply aren't my style. And I also admit that that is what has kept me away from its technical part, which seems impressive. Be sure to read - in English - the explanation given on its own page: from the design from a blank sheet to the technical solutions applied, without modules, without redundant dates, with a base disk of 28 days (the highest common denominator) to which the necessary ones are added according to the month in question instead of the other way around... I was definitely missing something. 50 units in total, 25 in 950 platinum and 25 in pink gold at a price of 181,500 Swiss francs which, if they weren't outrageous, seen from here they would even seem tight to me...
“Travel Time” Award
The next award, the “Travel Time” or GMT GPHG watches 2016, has gone to the Fabergé Visionnairefrom a brand that is little known horologically speaking, but that has known how to entrust the heart of its watch to a watchmaking genius such as the little-known Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, a specialist in retrograde mechanisms and father of many of the most fascinating complications that have hit the market in recent years. From Aghenor, his company, he has created “poetic” complications for brands such as Hermès, Van Cleef & Arpels, Harry Winston or the Fabergé in question, to speak of the non-watchmakers, the others are truly jealous of their professional secret…
What we have here is a direct reading dual time zone clock: the “home” time is read on a central disc with the help of a lens to make it perfectly visible. Since I don't have direct photographs of this delight that I just discovered by reading the awards, I think it would be better if I left a video, which is much more illustrative. Price, 29,500 Swiss francs
Video
By the way, that double black gear that we see on the back is the one that controls the second time zone.
Mechanical Exception Award
The GPHG 2016 mechanical exception award went to Audemars Piguet with its Concept Supersonneriewhich, as its name indicates, is an – expensive – proof of concept that combines chronograph, tourbillon and minute repeater in a super light titanium and ceramic case, water-resistant to 20 meters. Eight years have passed since the Royal Oak Concept RD#1 and new sound concepts have been developed, three patented innovations that make this spaceship in form sound with the grandeur of pocket watches of past centuries. Available for 561,600 Swiss francs (no typos).
“Petite Aiguille” Award
“Petite Aiguille” would be the prize that the jury gives to the most earthly watch of the winners, something like a recognition that not all fans have a large bank account to seriously pine for any of their fellow award winners. And this time it was the turn of someone who had been crying out for it since he appeared at the last Baselworld 2016: andl Tudor Black Bay in bronze.Indeed, it was a real bomb from minute zero, when we saw it in the windows of the brand's stand and later (minute two) when it was presented to the Press.
The Heritage Black Bay family began the relaunch of the brand as truly independent of its older sister Rolex, whose shadow has accompanied it since its birth. Measuring 43mm and an aluminum bronze alloy that takes on a controlled patina, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Bronze combines the straw tone of the case with chocolate brown tones of the dial and bezel. And so that this does not sound like a fashion show, I will say that it is animated by the new in-house caliber (the first in its history) MT5601, chronometer certified by the COSC, with a silicon hairspring and 70 hours of power reserve. And with a price of 3,800 Swiss francs it becomes truly attractive.
Sports Watch Award
The 2016 GPHG award for sports watch (which last year went precisely to Tudor with its Pelagos) has gone this year to Eberhard & Co. and its Scafograf 300.Like his predecessor in the award, Eberhard has searched his archives and historical catalogs – and who hasn't – to find the inspiration that seems to be missing lately in the watch industry if we discount dreams without budget limits. Enhanced with a helium escape valve, curved sapphire crystal and ceramic bezel, the Scafograf 300 pays homage to its 1950s namesake. Even its strap is updated: rubber on a Chassis® steel base and patented Déclic® folding clasp. All for 2,640 Swiss francs.
Jewelry Award
Okay, okay, I don't know much about it either.jewelry award, which went to Chanel with its “Signature Grenat”, a “secret clock” (quartz) hidden under an authentic waterfall of precious stones and that would seem like nothing more than an excuse to show off such a burst of light. It is, more than anything, a wonderful jewel that will most likely almost never serve to tell the time to its wearer although, yes, it will attract more attention than any of the watches described in this article: diamonds and orange sapphires framing a huge garnet of more than 56 carats that in turn hides a watch face embellished with more brilliants, no wonder. Nor is the price: 759,000 Swiss francs.
Artistic Craft Award
Another display of non-watchmaking virtuosity: Piaget wins the artistic craft award with a work of micro-tiles in a gray gold case. A mosaic made with 5,000 impossible pieces in a 42x46mm case (including the dial) by the artist Cesare Bella in a necessarily limited series. Three copies, exactly. Manual movement with 60 hours of power reserve, although this is not important here for it to cost 249,000 Swiss francs.
Revival Award
The one I can speak about with more knowledge is the gnominee for the 2016 Revival GPHG award: the Monza Crono, by TAG-Heuer, a reissue (although not quite) of the famous Heuer namesake from 1976 that featured the legendary 12 gauge.There are more differences: from black blued steel to grade 5 titanium coated with titanium carbide, not to mention the inevitable relocation of the chrono buttons to the right when going from a 12 to a 17 caliber, more conventional and based on Sellita. The case grows from the original 39mm to 42mm, but they have colored the superluminova (previously tritium) in a tan tone, yes. I was able to try it at the last edition of Baselworld and the impressions were good, although I would have kept the pushers opposite or, as I mentioned to the TH team from Spain, painted the crown in black...
But the great Biver already said it: "we do not want to reproduce exactly the icons of the past. We want to build on our roots without losing value to the watches that have taken us where we are. And if we made exact replicas of them we would be undermining that value." Jack Heuer, a true marketing genius who introduced his brand into the glamorous world of F1, collected the award along with a recognition that was denied to him at the time due to the arrival of the quartz crisis.
In a limited edition of 2,650 copies, it will go on sale for 4,900 Swiss francs or 4,700 euros.
Audience Award
Finally, “last but not least”, theGPHG public award 2016.I don't know very well how the organization calculates this, but the truth is that I tend to agree with them quite a bit.CzapekIt is one of those projects carried out with heart but also with a lot of head by three partners who know well the environment in which they operate and, most importantly, in which they want to operate. A big “crowfunding” where subscribers become partners of the company and most importantly: convinced ambassadors. The so far short history of this brand will be the subject of a dedicated report, promised.
The Quai des Berges is the first model to see the light of day after a gestation of several years and is based on one of those that François Czapek (Antoine de Patek's first partner) created in 1850 for the European aristocracy of the time. It has a caliber developed by the prestigious Chronode (another magician hidden behind the scenes, like Aghenor) with 7 days of power reserve that is reflected in the subdial at 5 o'clock while at 7 o'clock we see the continuous seconds. It combines all the elements of Fine Watchmaking, such as the hand-finished movement with an enamelled “Grand Feu” dial that also hides a secret phrase that each client can personalize. The “Fleur de Lis” needles are also worked by hand. All this in a 42.5mm case that can be made of gold, titanium or highly corrosion-resistant XO steel (in case you need it). The price – in gold – is 23,980 Swiss francs, although members can get substantial discounts.
And here is what - for me - these GPHG 2016 awards have given. I fervently recommend expanding the information in the abundant links that I have left.
Best watch strap | Best annual calendar watch | Best watch winder | Best Black Luxury watch | Best Luxury Watches Men | Best Swiss Luxury Watches Women | Best Men Diamond Watches under 1000 | Best Diamond Watches Women | Best Luxury Dive Watch
