Reclaimed Wood Storage Chest, I wanted to build something out of this old barn wood and keep it with the spirit, so I designed this old style wood chest.
Step 1: Wood preparation and cut list

- Unfortunately, the tongues and grooves broke during the demonstration, but the wood was in good condition. The first (and least fun) step was to cut the wood and get rid of the tongue and groove. I used my table saw to remove a bit from each side of the board and rip the boards to 3 inches wide.
- I then used my miter saw to cut all the boards to their final length using the cut list below. The overall dimensions of the storage trunk are 39″ x 21″ x 16″.
Reclaimed 3/4 by 3 inch boards:
- 10 @ 37 ½» – Front and back walls
- 10 @ 18″ – Side walls
- 8 @ 15″ – Corners
- 6 @ 36″ – Base
- 7 @ 39″ – Cover
- 2 @ 17 ½» – Lid Supports
2x2s:
- 2 @ 18″
- 2 @ 33″
- 1 @ 15″
Step 2: Build the Base


- I started by assembling the base made up of 2x2s. Lay out the pieces and drill pilot holes in the ends, then assemble with 2-½ screws. Make sure you use a speed square to get your corners square.
- It's also a good idea to pre-drill pilot holes on the inside of the base frame to make it easier to attach later.
Step 3: Pre-assemble the side panels



- I found it easier to first assemble each of the sides individually. I cut a spacer strip for this. The spacer should be the same as the thickness of your reclaimed wood.
- I placed the 5 pieces for the front wall flat on my workbench, then placed my spacer all the way to the edge. I then placed a 15-inch corner piece on top, flush with the outside edge, and used some nails to attach it to the panels. Repeat for the other side, and the remaining 3 walls.
Step 4: Assemble the frame




- With the 4 individual walls assembled, building the log is a matter of standing them up and making a box. To make things easier, I first attached a few nails from the outside, then screwed the base to the wall from the inside.
- With the base secured in place, simply place the floor boards in place and attach the boards to the base with your nailer.
- I could use pocket hole screws to hold the walls together, or add a piece of wood to the inside corners to hold them together, but I chose to use metal corner braces. First I sprayed them with black paint, then screwed them from the inside.
Step 5: Make the lid


- I made pocket holes using my Kreg jig and used pocket screws to assemble the lid.
- I hid the pocket screws by adding cross brackets to the top. I attached the brackets with nails, as they were more decorative than anything else.
Step 6: Assemble the Equipment




- I marked where I wanted the hinges and used a chisel to countersink them so they sat flush. I learned from this experience that my chiseling skills could use some practice.
- For the handles, I cut 2 eight-inch strips from an old belt and screwed them to each side of the chest.
- I also installed a latch on the lid to accommodate a padlock, but I really liked the look.
Step 7: Final Touches





- I wanted a way to hold the lid on when it was open, so I simply screwed a piece of rope to both the inside of the lid and the side of the chest.
- I ended up rounding all the edges with my orbital sander and touching up all the screws with a little black paint.
- Be sure to check out the video tutorial if you haven't already.
Video:
Source: diymontreal.com
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