Super Economical Table for the Router 2026

Super Economical Router Table (Safety and Precision in Your Work), create this very safe and precise Router table for a fraction of the cost of a brand name version.

Materials needed:

• Router Mold (Kreg brand)
• 3/4 inch thick MDF sheet 2′ x 4′ (final dimensions 20″ x 36″)
• 1/4 inch thick MDF sheet with laminated surface 2′ x 4′ (final dimensions 20″ x 36″)
• 3/8 inch thick plywood or other material approximately 2′ x 2′ (to make a pattern for the Router)
• 2x3 lumber (approximately 16 feet total)
• 4 small wood screws (to level the Router mold)
• 26 Large Cover Screws
• Wood glue
• Contact adhesive
• Small paint brush or paint roller (for applying contact adhesive)
• Surge Suppressor (to easily turn the Router on and off)
• CA glue (cyanoacrylate adhesive)

Tools needed:

• Table saw
• Router
• Router Bit 1: Clean the trim bit (to clean the table surface)
• Router Bit 2: Pattern Bit (to make the plate tray or router mold)
• Drill with two bits: 1) 3/8″ bit and 2) 1/8″ countersink bit
• Sierras.

Warnings:

• Woodworking tools are dangerous.
• Routers are probably the most dangerous tool... They have hair triggers and are extremely powerful. Please note that when the Router is on, nothing, and I mean nothing, will prevent the bit from rotating.
• Always unplug the Router when installing it on the table, when changing the bit, and/or when performing any operation other than edge work on a table or board. Seriously, unplug it when you're not working on it.
• Always wear eye protection. Ideally, a full face shield.
• Always use a commercial Router plate or mold. Never use a thin piece of plywood or a thin board in place of a commercial router board. This must be durable and the table surface must be thick. This ensures that the Router never separates from the table in the unlikely event that something gets stuck as well as preventing the material from sagging.

Step 1: Table Surface

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Cut both pieces from the MDF sheets.

• Cut the 3/4″ thick MDF to its final dimensions: 20″ x 36″ (or whatever size you choose).
• Cut the 1/4″ thick MDF sheet, one inch larger in all directions. In my case, that's 22″ x 38″
• Link both sheets of MDF together.
• Apply contact cement to both pieces of MDF. Let the cement dry. When it is sticky to the touch, it is ready. That should take approximately 30 minutes.
• Apply a second coat of contact cement around the edges. Again, let it dry.
• Place small pieces of wood on the thick base. Align the thinner top piece.
• Remove the scrap wood and apply downward pressure to join both joints.

IMPORTANT:

You only have one chance to join the boards... The bond will be instant and permanent. Having the top board 1 inch larger gives you some "margin for error," so to speak.

• Trim excess material
• Use a Router with a flush cut bit to remove the extra 1/4″ MDF material.

Tip:

Always clamp the workpiece to your workbench. You don't want it to slide around while using the Router.

Step 2: Cut the hole for the Router board

Pattern

This will be used to guide a hand router with a pattern bit while removing material that is the exact size of the router plate.

It is best to make the pattern opening a little larger than the router plate... Maybe 1/16 of an inch larger. This way, the Router board will easily fall into place.

Use the table saw to cut 3/8-inch-thick plywood into strips. I cut mine to about 3 inches wide. Use glue. CA to close the pieces. Hold the template to the table.

IMPORTANT:

The position of the plate on the table surface must not be in the exact center! That's a common mistake! Although you can have the same amount of space on the left and right of the Router board, the space on the front and back of the board should NOT be equal. Position the plate so that it has more space in the front…

That's your "work surface" and the extra space will come in handy. The back of the table (the area behind the router bit and where the fence is located) requires less space.

Shelf

The Router board should be located on a shelf within the table surface.

• Use a router with a pattern tip to remove the material. The drill bit should have a bearing between the blade and the handle, that way the bearing will ride along the plywood template.
• Set the bit depth deeper than the thickness of the Router board. All Router boards should measure 3/8 inch... Measure yours to be sure.
• Drill four holes with a 3/8-inch drill bit to allow a saw blade to pass through.
• Remove the core by cutting along the inside edge with a jigsaw.
• Add four small screws (position as shown) to adjust the height of the Router plate.
• The Router plate should be flush with the surface. Make sure your workpiece does not "catch" on the plate or table. It is best to have the plate depth lowest, about the thickness of a sheet of office paper, on the input side (right) and highest (again, the thickness of a sheet of office paper) on the output side (left).

Step 3: Finish the Router Board Area

The Router board has pre-drilled holes in the corners.

With the router plate in position, use its pre-drilled holes as a guide to drill the ledge you just created. (this step is not shown).

Notice that the holes are VERY close to the edge. That's a little too unsafe in my opinion. I prefer to have the mounting screws "grab" into more material. So... do the following:

• Reinforce the router plate area
• Cut a section of the 3/8-inch-thick plywood into triangles. The exact size is not critical.
• At the bottom of the table, cover the corners with this triangle and secure with small wood screws. I also used CA glue, but CA glue probably wasn't necessary. However, it doesn't hurt to use CA glue in addition to screws.
• With the table placed top side up, use the holes you drilled earlier to drill the plywood reinforcement triangles you just installed.
• Use the screws/washers/nuts that came with the Router board to secure it.

You're almost done!

Step 4: Table frame and legs

Reinforce the table surface

• Cut two sections of 2x3 wood to the length of the table.
• Optional: Grind the 2x3 lumber so that all surfaces are 90 degrees and parallel. (This step is not shown. Additional tools are required if you do this… Again, this is totally optional)
• Stick the wood to the bottom of the table and attach with the deck screws.

Create the legs of the table

• Cut four pieces of 2x3 wood for the legs. The length you choose for you. Choose a length that produces a comfortable height for you. Obviously, make sure the Router has enough space when you finally mount it under the table surface.
• Set the table saw's miter gauge at 5 degrees and cut the legs to size.
• Make sure each leg is the same size. I used two powerful magnets to mark the cut locations. Magnets can be a safe and precise way to ensure that your workpiece does not bounce back towards you.
• Install the table legs
• Apply wood glue to the legs and hold them in place with clamps.
• Use the platform screws to secure the table legs to the reinforcing frame.

Table leg crossbars

• Use a 2x3 piece of wood to use as crossbars. In my case, I used two pieces of 3/4″ plywood glued together…
• The legs are already at a 5 degree angle… But the longer cross beams allow you to avoid making a more complicated compound miter cut. Basically doing it this way will result in a table that is just safe and much easier to build. Easy = good!

Final reinforcement

• Cut 2x3 pieces of wood to cover the short area of the table. Measure the area on your table and cut these pieces at that distance.
• Apply glue and secure with clamps to ensure good contact with the underside of the table
• Screw these bracket pieces into place as shown.

Step 5: Final touches and final reflections

Installing your router

Follow the instructions on the Router board to assemble your tool. Each manufacturer has slightly different steps. Don't worry, it's easy!

Power

Use a power strip to easily turn your computer on and off. This prevents you from reaching under the table to locate the on/off trigger that is connected to the Router.

Nearby

Use a thick piece of wood as a fence. Make sure the wood is flat! Use clamps to secure the fence to the table. Although this will not look as elegant as professional router fences, you can rest assured, it will be absolutely as precise... If not more precise!

Secure your table so it never moves

Secure your Router to your work table before using it! Better yet, use screws to secure it.
Enjoy your new Router table! Be safe and follow all tool manufacturer's instructions and precautions. Your table will give you a life of precision.

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