One of Baselworld's safe bets isChopard. It is true that the most important watch and jewelry fair in the world is aimed at distributors, but it is no less true that fans from all over the world are attentive to the novelties presented there. And theChopard news at Baselworld 2017, from sophisticated jewelry to the most sublime complications in elegant watches, have lived up to the challenge.
One more year, the waste of imagination – and resources – ofChopardIt has satisfied the most demanding expectations, but beyond the sparkling jewels and spectacular complications – which there are – one watch has shone with its own light despite its apparent simplicity: the L.U.C XP (by eXtra Plano). I deduce that, like the bulk of the Swiss watch industry, the Fleurier brand has noticed the effects of the economic crisis and the global geopolitical situation, and this model materializes its reaction.
With a 40 mm steel case, vertical satin-silver dial and large blue numerals as well as the stylized fusée dauphine hands, the Chopard L.U.C. XP mounts the caliber 96.53-L with tungsten micro rotor and Twin® technology with double superimposed barrel, completely developed and manufactured in the Manufacture's workshopsChopardin Fleurier. The fact of avoiding precious materials (steel for the case and tungsten for the micro-rotor) means that the price remains at an unheard of €8,100.
A note on tungsten (from the Swedishtungsten, heavy stone): discovered in 1783 (by the Spanish, and baptized by them as “tungsten”. Yes, it's the same), it was not known what to do with it because it is terribly hard and very difficult to melt (its melting point is above 3400ºC) until 130 years later when it was applied as a filament for incandescent light bulbs. But what matters here is that it is three times denser than steel and almost as dense as gold, which is why it has been chosen as a substitute for an element as crucial as the micro rotor that has to charge not one but two barrels for a power reserve of 58 hours in a caliber just 3.30 mm thick, made up of 172 parts and decorated with Côtes de Geneve.
For some years now,Chopardis committed to “sustainable luxury,” which refers to the origin of the precious materials it uses (metals and stones), the extraction of which must directly benefit the people who work in the mines. It is what they call “Fair Mined”, which could freely be translated as “responsible extraction” and which in some way tries to set an example for the industry.
And the L.U.C is made of that Fair Mined Gold. XPS Twist QF, an extra-thin watch (the S is for the small seconds) equipped with the manually wound caliber 96.09-L with double barrel that gives it 65 hours of power reserve and chronometer certification by the COSC. The Fleurier Foundation certifies the complete watch (QF, Qualité Fleurier). It is important to note that Qualité Fleurier stipulates that the entire watch, including the movement and exterior components, must be manufactured in Switzerland. In a limited edition of 250 copies, its price is €18,210
The latest XPS presented this year is the L.U.C XPS 1860 Officer, full of secrets and symbols. On one side it has a dial decorated with a hand-guilloché motif; On the other hand, it has an official caseback, also decorated in guilloché, which opens and allows the ultra-flat L.U.C 96.01-L movement to be observed. Made of 18k gray gold, it has the COSC chronometry certificate and the Hallmark of Geneva. The dial is made of solid gold and is also decorated with the same hexagonal motif.
The articulated casebacks, called official casebacks or with lids, served to protect the glass of pocket watches, but they also represented the field of expression for unique and personalized engravings. When watches became wrist watches, watchmaking dispensed with the use of those precious covers. However, the art and gesture remain. The beehive engraved on the inside of the cover is interesting, a tribute to the engravers of yesteryear, when placing the bees in the swarm made each engraving a unique piece. And speaking of pieces, this edition is limited to 100, at the price of €27,760
In 2017 we celebrate the 90th anniversary of “the most beautiful race in the world”, according to Enzo Ferrari: the Mille Miglia.ChopardIt has sponsored this competition since 1988, and in each edition it has launched a chronograph with that name. This year, for the first time and to celebrate that 90th anniversary, a Mille Miglia (the Classic XL) will be fitted with an in-house caliber: the L.U.C. 03.07-L manually wound, with chronometer certificate (COSC), Geneva punch and 60 hours of power reserve, visible through the open case back protected with a sapphire crystal. Gold case, porcelain dial and limited edition of 90 units. Exceptionally and contrary to what has been common, it comes with a brown Barenia leather strap instead of the usual tire-patterned rubber strap. It will sell for €38,420
But there are more Mille Miglia that do mount the Dunlop from the 60s. The GTS 2017, another limited edition (this one at 1000 units, €6,600) and the Classic Chronograph with a silver or black dial for €4,830. Both editions are equipped with an automatic caliber with chronometer certification by the COSC. There is even one more with a mother-of-pearl dial and diamond bezel.
Returning to the L.U.C. collection, we have the reissue of the Lunar One. This perpetual calendar, with a large date and phases of the moon, which concentrates all the watchmaking skills of the manufactureChopard, was first presented in 2005 and is now dressed in 950 platinum in an edition limited to 100 pieces. In the case, 43 mm in diameter, the vertical satin finish of the flanks is combined with the polishing of the bezel and lugs. The L.U.C Lunar One caliber 96.13-L is one of the very few self-winding perpetual calendars and, even more extraordinary, one of the very few to have a micro-rotor. Instead of an oscillating weight in a semi-circle, which hides the movement, its 22k solid gold rotor is integrated at the height of the movement, which contributes to the thinness of the movement and, therefore, of the watch itself. Completely decorated, it displays the Hallmark of Geneva and is a COSC-certified chronometer. It will have a price of €66,890
And if 100 copies seem few for a limited series, the 20 that make up the even more exclusive L.U.C. Perpetual Chrono will sound “very-very rare”. With the functions of perpetual calendar, large date, moon phases and vertical clutch chronograph and “flyback” or “retour en vol”, the L.U.C caliber. 03.10-L manually wound, made up of 452 pieces, chronometer certified by the COSC and along with the rest of the watch awarded to the Punch of Geneva, it includes a lunar mechanism that only requires an adjustment every 122 years. 45 mm 950 platinum case with open caseback, sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and solid gold dial with hand-made guilloche. Price: €101,710
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