How to Make a Raised Wooden Planter, this could be made for indoors or outdoors. Since this was made indoors, I used a pond liner and a plastic potting box. I used pine wood, so I didn't want the wood to have direct contact with the ground. For outside use my suggestion would be to use cedar wood, this is common for the outside planter box and it is fine to have direct contact with the ground. Of course, any protection wouldn't hurt. Cedar is also known to repel some insects.
Although the stand looks like metal, this whole thing is made of wood. I used a common pine board and selected pine. Here is a list of what I used in this project:
- For the support, I use 2×2 pine.
- 1×10 pine boards
- Wood finish
- Pond liner
- Finishing brush
- Wood screw
- Wood glue
- 5/16 wooden rod
Step 1: Cutting and assembly








First, I cut all my wood to the length I wanted. You can apply this concept to any size you want. I wanted a clean look so I blended the corners of the pot. You can also use butt joints if mitered corners are challenging.
With the cut now behind me I can move on to assembly. I have drilled pocket holes in the bottom. I attached the long sides first, applying wood glue to the joint and then securing it with pocket hole screws. Then, I joined the two short sides together, to close the ends. Again, using wood glue at the connection points.
Since the pocket holes are only on the bottom, I used a band clamp to close and tension the joints. Allow it to sit until the glue dries.
Step 2: Manufacturing the support









Making the legs (supports):
First, line up the 2x2 as shown, then clamp it. Next, drill a 5/16 hole through both boards. Then add wood glue between the joints. Place a small amount in the hole, then coat the rod with glue. Now drive the dowel through both parts. When you can no longer drive the pin, use a flush cut saw to cut it.
Now, look for the two legs. At this point, I can attach them using 2x2 lumber. I measure 4 inches down from the top, that's where I place them. I then glued and secured this until the glue set. To finish, I inserted the dowel rod into it.
Step 3: Cutting the shelf slats








At the bottom of the stand frame, I added a shelf. The shelf also played a key part of the design. To get the cleanest look, I cut the dice into the shelf slats. I found it easier to hold the individual piece and then cut the dice all at once. If you have a stack of dice you will make quick work of this.
Next, there will be two of these pieces. These two will be approached differently. I cut two sections from the final pieces. These sections will be in line with the die cuts previously. You can chisel this out or you can use an oscillating tool which would speed things up dramatically.
The next thing I did was join the ends of the shelf. I used the same method as the previous step. Placing the shelf 4 inches from the bottom. Also make sure the notched section is facing in and facing down. Glue, fasten and add dowels.
Step 4: Application of the finish




After sanding everything. I applied a finish to the planter box and slats. After applying two coats of finish, I applied a coat of cleaner.
For the support, I taped the bottom shelf and then applied a satin black paint. After the paint dried, I removed the tape and used a finish.
Step 5: Final Touches








- Add the slats: I attached the slats. Each piece space evenly and secured with two screws from the bottom.
- Pond: Since this will be indoors, I added a small pond liner in case the plastic pot overflows.
- Plants: I used Giant Iris for the project, these will not be kept inside the house they need 6 hours per day of sunlight to survive.
- Add rocks: I used landscaping rocks, which is my go-to for wrapping a pot.
Step 6: Reveal






It looked great! Big greetings to everyone!
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