Simple Steps to Make PVC TV and Laptop Stands! 2026

Simple Steps to Make PVC TV and Laptop Stands, Can be modified to support most any size or weight of TV. For this particular project, I am mounting a 32″ flat screen TV high enough to be viewed over a 3 foot high bed post. This one is also foldable and can be built as a permanent structure. Please note that larger or heavier TVs may require larger diameter tubing or longer standing positions.

PVC TV Stand

Step 1: Pipe Sizes

This particular mount is approximately 60 inches tall and is compatible with a 32-inch flat screen TV that weighs approximately 30 pounds. The leg posts are approximately 20 inches long and are 32 inches apart.

The pipes are 1.5 inches in diameter and have a schedule of 40 (wall thickness).

Accessories:

• 4 T-type connectors
• Elbows from 2 to 90 degrees
• 4 couplings

Pipe lengths:

• 2- 8 Inches
• 2-12 Inches
• 2- 28 Inches
• 4-29 Inches

All pipes were cut with a Miter Saw, but if you don't have one; Any hand saw or simple pipe cutter will also work. Just be careful not to break the pipes.

Step 2: Assembly

Once all the pieces are cut, assembly is quite simple and straightforward:

• Assemble the legs first: PVC coupler, 12 inches. T-type connection, 8 inches
• Bottom of legs: 2- 29 Inches
• Bottom Rail: T-connection, 28 inches
• Top legs: 2- 29 Inches
• Top Crossbar: 90, 28 Inches, 90

BE SURE to test the stand and make sure it does not wobble excessively or be prone to falling. If necessary, file or cut the pipes to stabilize the structure.

My particular frame is held tight along with basic wood screws for easy disassembly, but you can permanently glue the parts/complete frame together. If you are going to use screws, it is advisable to drill the holes before drilling the screws. The pilots will prevent the couplings from cracking when the screws are installed. Screw in the screws slowly so as not to strip the PVC.

The wood plate pictured will hold the TV to the stand, it is a piece of 1/2 inch plywood. If necessary, ventilation holes can be drilled to keep the TV cool. The width of the board is equal to the total assembled width of the base and measures approximately 18 inches in height. Do not use a lower height because the plate will deform under the load. Also, be sure to cut any/all areas on the board for the power cables.

Before attaching the plate, pre-drill all the plate-to-frame mounting holes (1/4 inch drill bit) and all the plate-to-TV mounting holes (Note: Add a minor tolerance to the mounting holes to mount the TV, basically making them a little wider than the bolts/screws you are using to mount the TV).

After you have drilled the mounting holes in the board, use the 1/4 inch mounting holes to drill the fixing holes in the PVC frame. Next, mount the plate to the frame with 1/4-inch bolts. BE VERY CAREFUL not to overtighten the screws or you may crack the pipes!

Step3: Finish!

Once the board is mounted to the rack, simply mount the TV to the board using the hardware provided by the TV manufacturer or, if you don't have it, use appropriately sized metric bolts to mount the TV.

PVC Laptop Stand

A laptop stand with cable placement. No need to paste.

Step 1: Cut the PVC to length

You will need:

• 6 Pieces of 5 1/2″ by 3/4″
• 2 Pieces of 11″ by 3/4″ (For a 14″ Dell make these two pieces of 7″ to 8″)
• 4 T-connections
• 4 PVC Elbows

Step 2: Planning

Assemble two "shelves" like this.

Step 3: Route the cables

Run the cables through the bends as shown. The USB connectors will snap into place with a little push. If you use those CAT-5 adapters, you can hook VGA or DVI cables through this platform.

Step 4: Adjust the joints

No glue needed! Friction should do it fine.

Step 5: Place the laptop

PVC support for iPad/Tablet

It was designed to allow you to use your iPad or Tablet in bed, sitting on the floor or at a table. It's something even someone in an apartment can do with just a few basic tools. This design supports landscape or portrait modes by adjusting the positions of the top supports. The frame can be easily disassembled to pack up for travel. It can also be used as a tripod for the device's camera, etc.

Step 1: Supplies and Tools

There are 3 parts to the complete stand: the frame, the bracket, and the bracket. The kickstand is optional, but it is a convenient handle for carrying.

Tools:

• 1 PVC pipe cutter
• Tape measure
• Drill and a 1/4″ bit
• Hacksaw

Materials:

• 3-way side outlet elbows
• 10-24 Machine screws and wing nuts (this is the coarse thread type, do not confuse it with the 10-32 fine thread).
• The drill bit is 1/4″, which makes the holes a little larger for the screws, so aligning the parts is easier. Most dimensions can be changed to your liking.
• Cement for PVC.

PVC pipes:

All PVC pipes and fittings must be for the 1/2″ size.

• 3 Pieces of 1/2″ 1/2″ PVC pipe (sold in 4 or 5 foot lengths), consider extra because you will definitely cut some pieces too short
• 6 90 degree PVC elbows
• 2 45 degree elbows
• 5 T-connections (3-way 'T' connectors)
• 4 3-way elbows (also called 'sides') shaped like small tripods for supports.
• 2PVC covers
• 6 Rubber washers
• 220 grit sandpaper
• 4 3″ thick machine screws, one 2.5″ and one 2″. 6 Wing nuts 10-24

Do not glue anything until you have used the stand for a while. You'll have to support it carefully to make sure it doesn't break, but once you've glued the PVC, there's no going back.

Step 2: Build the framework

The frame holds your iPad or tablet and attaches securely to the stand. It's just two top and bottom horizontal bars and a center vertical connecting piece. Multiple holes can be drilled in the vertical connecting piece to allow you to adjust the height. There are four 3-way or 'side exit' elbows that act as stands to support your device.

The bottom two support the weight and the top two secure your device from the sides. Be careful not to tilt the stand too far forward or back, or your tablet may slide out. An optional “stand” can be made that will allow you to prop up your device on a table or other surface. The dimensions here are for an iPad 2.

You can check other devices with these measurements to make sure they work. If in doubt, cut the pipe a little further, that way you can always cut it instead of starting over if you cut it too far. The bracket machine screws will twist into place if you try to overtighten the wing nuts, which helps prevent overtightening.

Hose washers fit between pieces to provide a better grip and make it easier to tighten machine screws. Making the frame first will make it easier to adjust the final height of the stand so you know how long to cut some of the stand pieces.

You will need to drill two 1/4″ holes in each of the two top horizontal pieces, one for the horizontal orientation of your tablet (the long axis of the horizontal tablet) and one to secure the device in portrait orientation (long vertical axis). Only one hole is needed in the two bottom sections for the bottom brackets.

A 3″ machine screw is used to connect each bracket to the pipe with a hose washer between the bracket and the pipe. The frame attaches to the main top horizontal bar of the bracket with a 2″ machine screw and a hose washer between them.

The holes in the vertical connecting piece are somewhat arbitrary. You will need a hole in the top to attach the easel or directly into the stand.  Be sure to cover the heads of the screws that make contact with the tablet so they don't get scratched. You can use thick tape, a band-aid, or some rubber shelf liner if necessary. You can wrap a rope around the pipe to keep the tablet tighter in the frame.

Sandpaper will remove the writing on the PVC. However, do not sand the writing on the pieces that fit into the joints or the connections may be too loose.

Step 3: Build the Support

The length of the main horizontal bar that joins the frame is arbitrary. Customize the final height of your base in bed by placing your tablet right above your chest to get an idea if you need to adjust the vertical pieces longer or shorter than 2.5″.

Start by cutting the longest pieces first. Please see images for cutting lengths of each section. Each fitting forms two joints with a piece of pipe. Do not glue either side of the joints indicated with red arrows.

The bottom joints in red allow the legs resting on the surface to turn outward or inward as you move the stand closer or further away from you. It also allows you to detach the stand.

Non-glued top joints allow the long horizontal bar to tilt the frame and tablet up and down.

The only crucial part of this step is to make sure the 45 degree connector is 90 degrees to the top elbow when you finally glue it on.

If you leave the end caps off, they can make a nice storage compartment for pens or pencils.

Step 4: Build the foot (optional)

The kickstand is used to prop your device up on a table, counter, bed, or even on your lap. It's simple to do. The lengths indicated in the image above are important, so the bracket does not block the holes.

The bracket simply rotates around the stripped joints of the top T-connection which is connected by a 2.5″ machine screw to the top of the frame (with a hose washer between the two T-connections).

Make sure the top T-connection is oriented, so it doesn't block the screw underneath. The stand can rotate upwards and form a carrying handle which makes moving and placing the stand much easier.

Step 5: Improvements

There are other ways to improve support.

To prevent the loose joints from separating completely, you can secure the two pieces with a string. Drill a hole in both pieces of the gasket, but be sure not to drill through the part of the gasket where both pieces overlap. Pass the rope through one of the holes from the outside, then through the inside of the gasket, and then into the other hole. Tie a knot at both ends of the rope, but keep the length of the rope loose enough that you can separate the joint.

You may want to paint the PVC with specially formulated PVC paint (spray paint). You can decorate it with bright paint and 'sparkles' for your children.

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