Hautlence is a different brand, one of those brands that you remember when you have seen it once. And this, in a world as saturated as that of watchmaking, is no small feat. Created in 2004, its objective was and is to break the established rules, not only with its architectural code boxes - the easy part - but also by exploring new ways of seeing the time in them. In fact, it upsets everything, starting with his name. Few discover at first glance that it is an anagram (transposition of letters) of the city where it was born: Neuchatel. The Meylan family, owners of a classic such as H. Moser, rescued it in 2012 from a dark end and moved it to the no less watchmaking town of La-Chaux-deFonds.
You have to be brave (and have money, of course) to bet on an adventure likeHautlence. Because it is not only the unprecedented complications that equip its models: we must take into account that it is a niche brand and that production can never be massive, so the development cost must be passed on to very few pieces. So few, that they are limited series that range from 28 to 88 units per edition. Speaking with Rafael Valiño, the only official distributor for Spain, he makes it clear: he estimates that between eight and ten watches can be sold a year.
On the website ofHautlenceIt is stated that they “develop and produce” their own calibers, although knowing that Georges-Henri Meylan was director of Audemars Piguet (which in turn integrates Renaud et Papi) the easiest thing is for these complications to come from the head of that genius called Giulio Papi. And one of those complications – a jumping time displayed on a caterpillar-like band as the entire regulating organ rotates – is what was contained in the HL3 and Vortex I held in my hands today.
Constructed of titanium and sapphire, the level of finish is impeccable, as is the construction of the crocodile strap with rubber treatment or the deployant buckle. Likewise, the treatment of the components that make up the caliber and the caliber itself brings them closer to – I believe it puts them by right in – Fine Watchmaking. Of course, with prices ranging between 190,000 and 210,000 euros, one cannot demand less. Valiño's statement is now clearer.
Big? I would say that you need a wrist of at least 22cm in circumference so that it doesn't look like a foreign object (I think there are some smaller smartphones). It certainly wouldn't be my daily watch...
Both of them mount (in different positions) an automatic caliber (white gold oscillating weight) with a double barrel, retrograde minute display and hour display via the twelve-link chain moved by a system of paddles that I mentioned above. It also shows a power reserve indicator, but the impressive thing about this museum piece (at least for me, there are several dozen watches that I would buy before, if I could afford them) is not the mechanism itself but its operation. I'm going to save a few paragraphs and leave a video that explains it perfectly:
The thing does not end here: the “transgressive” vein ofHautlenceIt has led him to present a curious piece – it cannot be called a watch – at the last Baselworld show. HeLabyrinth 01is exactly what its name suggests: a can we say traditional? pastime where you have to direct a small sphere along convoluted paths to a hole. At first glance it seems easy, but the challenge is doing it with the watch? tied to the wrist. It has a mechanism, however (with 9 jewels!), and it is what lifts the ball back onto the playing field. In white or pink gold, this trifle comes out for the much more modest price of 12,000 euros. Although if you buy one of the above Valiño will be happy to give it to you.
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