Nirmal Purja Avalanche: 11 Climbers Struck on Broad Peak 2026

The Nirmal Purja avalanche on Pakistan's Broad Peak has left the climbing world in shock, as the renowned Nepali mountaineer and former British special forces member is among 11 climbers caught in a deadly avalanche. The incident occurred near camp two and camp three on the mountain's west ridge, a popular ascent route, and has triggered a complex rescue operation amid harsh weather conditions.

Avalanche on Broad Peak: What Happened

According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the avalanche struck close to 9am local time at an altitude of 6,579 meters (21,585 feet). GPS trackers carried by the climbers showed a rapid loss of altitude, indicating the team was swept down the mountain. Search efforts, including aerial drone footage, have been hampered by poor weather and limited helicopter availability in Pakistan, unlike Nepal's well-established private rescue network.

Victims and Survivors

Rescuers initially reported that four bodies had been found, with three identified: Pur Bahadur Gurung (Nepali), Nadhira Alharthy (Omani, first to climb Everest), and US climber Mallory Geis. However, later reports indicated that seven climbers were spotted via drone, though their identities and conditions remain unverified. Among the missing are Chinese national Wang Zhong, and Pakistani and Nepali high-altitude workers. Nirmal Purja's tracker shifted location after the initial descent, offering a glimmer of hope.

Purja, also known as Nims Dai, made history in 2019 by climbing all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters in just over six months, and later led the first winter summit of K2. He has also faced controversy, including a denied claim of sexual misconduct.

Rescue and Search Operations

Visual searches, including drone operations, were halted as night fell on Friday. The lack of military-run helicopter rescue in Pakistan, compared to Nepal, has significantly slowed efforts. The Alpine Club of Pakistan stated that the identities of the seven spotted climbers cannot yet be verified, and retrieval of bodies has been challenging due to the treacherous terrain and weather.

Data Table: Key Incident Details

Safety Concerns in High-Altitude Climbing

This incident underscores the inherent risks of high-altitude mountaineering, especially on peaks like Broad Peak. Avalanches are a leading cause of death, and climate change is increasing their frequency. Climbers must rely on proper gear, weather forecasting, and rescue infrastructure, which varies by country.

Key Takeaways

• Avalanche risk is highest between camps, especially on popular routes like the west ridge.
• Rescue operations in Pakistan are limited compared to Nepal, affecting response times.
• GPS trackers are critical for locating climbers after avalanches.
• Nirmal Purja's status remains uncertain, but his tracker movement suggests possible survival.
• International climbing community is closely monitoring the situation.

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