Waterer Made of PVC Pipes for Chickens, built with various PVC pipes and some ingenuity. It is not necessary to use any tool that is difficult to access or use, you can even do it with basic tools. Even a small child can build it. Below are the instructions to carry out this great project…
Step 1: Supplies




Here is a list of the supplies you will need for this project. I added a few pieces to the pipes to make them easier to disassemble and clean, but they could be left in to save money and simplify the project. I will explain each addition during the project.
- 4 BeakTime Watering Cups
- 2 foot piece of 1/2 inch PVC pipe
- 2 foot piece of 2 inch PVC pipe
- 3 inch piece of 3 inch PVC pipe
- 4″ X 3″ PVC Coupling
- 3″ X 2″ PVC Coupling
- 4 1/2″ connectors (threaded male end)
- 2 1/2″ Threaded Caps
- 2 2″ Cleanout Drain Plug Connectors
- 2″ Cleanout Drain Plug (Threaded)
- 2" adapter
- 2″ 90 degree T connectors
- 2 2″ X 1/2″ Bearings
- Pipe joint compound
- PVC cement
- 3 gallon or 5 gallon water jug
- 3-foot 2x6 lumber
Step 2: Cut the necessary PVC


I used my compound miter saw to cut the PVC used in this project. It gives nice, clean edges.
Just remember to keep constant pressure on the pipe and saw blade, also try to move slowly.
Cut the following pieces:
- 1/2 inch pipe: Cut 2 pieces 6″ long and 4 pieces 3″ long
- 3-inch pipe: Cut a 3-inch section
While you get your saw out, cut the wood needed for the bracket. I cut 2 pieces 12″ long. Additionally, you need a 6-inch piece, with 45-degree angles on each end to make the support beam. The 6 inch length will be the longest length of the board.
Step 3: Put the Tee Connection together with the vertical shaft



First, assemble the T connection that will be on the base. Use the PVC cement to place the 2″ x 1/2″ ferrules on the left and right side of the T fitting.
Then place one of the adapters into the bottom opening.
Use joint compound on the plug and screw it to the cleanout adapter. Next, connect the 2″ pipe to the top opening (using cement).
On top of the 2″ pipe, glue the 2″ trap adapter connection. Set it aside to dry while you work on the horizontal beams.
Step 4: Construction of horizontal beams

Start with 3″ 1/2″ tubing and glue on one of the watering rate couplers. I chose to order the ones with the 1/2″ PVC couplers, but they have other ways to add them to your system. This is the best way for us.
Next, add the 6-inch piece to the other end of the cup coupler. The next piece will be another cup coupler, followed by another piece of 3″ tubing.
Be sure to align the cups so they are straight. Repeat these steps to build the other side of the beam. On the outside end of each joist, install the 1/2″ adapters and screw in the plug using the PVC compound.
Add the other two 1/2″ adapters to the left and right sides of the tee with the PVC compound. Once both are in place, cement the left and right horizontal crossmember making sure the cups areThey are aligned and the cups sit flat so that water does not spill easily.
Step 5: Building the top

To connect the 4″ x 3″ coupler and the 3″ x 2″ coupler, use the 3″ PVC pipe and secure them with cement.
You can use a longer piece to give the top more height, but I find that the closer the jug is to the wooden stand, the less likely the jug will fall or wobble.
Add a cleaning adapter to the 2″ opening of the glued couplers and allow all parts to dry for 2 hours or whatever the recommendations of the pipe cement you are using.
Step 6: Mounting Bracket


You will need to determine where the neck of the water bottle will be on the platform of the holder. Drill a 3-inch hole at that point so the cleanout adapter on the top piece will easily seat inside the opening. You will need space to be able to screw the cleaning adapter into the trap adapter on top of the lower shaft.
I used a jigsaw to cut the opening, however I would recommend a hole saw if one is available.
Ignore the first hole drawn that has the X in the middle. I chose not to use that one. I decided to push it a little further to have enough room for the support angle to be as long as possible. I wanted to make sure the holder was sturdy enough to support the weight of the water bottle when it is full.
Screw the top piece to the vertical piece that will attach to the stud or other area where you plan to install the waterer. Next, add the bracket piece to the bracket with screws. Remove the screws on the upright board to make it easier to position once the height for the bracket is determined.
Step 7: Hang the Stand

To determine the height of the stand, place the top section into the hole in the stand and screw the bottom to the top. When determining the height of the watering cups, mark where the top of the stand should be.
Disconnect the top and bottom parts from the water. Mount the bracket securely in place. I rode mine to a stallion in our coop's running area. I centered the 2x6 board on the 2x4 and it worked great.
I'm also installing a piece of 2x4 to run behind the water jug and take up the space between the 2x4 stud and the jug. This will also give me an extra place to attach eye bolts and use bungee cords to hold the water jug on the bolt.
Step 8: Final!

Using PVC joint compound, connect the top and bottom snugly. Check all joints to make sure they are tight and ready for water. Open the top of the jug and insert the neck into the top.
Watch for drips and tighten when necessary.
Note:
I have discovered that my chicks like to walk behind the canopy beam, which sometimes causes the waterer to squirm. I will add a new bracket with fixing points to prevent this from happening. I haven't caused any problems, others have forced me to come out and put it in its place. I just want to make sure it's as safe as it can be.
I hope this is useful to you! See you soon!
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