Guide to Building an Arduino-Based Lightsaber: With Light and Sound Effects 2026

Guide to Building an Arduino-Based Lightsaber: With Light and Sound Effects, That Looks, Sounds and Acts Like One! The only difference is... It can't cut metal 🙁

This device is based on the Arduino platform, and I give it many features and functions, it was a very big job and I used all my programming skills, but it was worth it!

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Features:

• Smooth on/off with lightsaber sound effect
• Random pulse color (you can turn it off)

Sounds:

• MODE 1: Buzz generated. The frequency depends on the speed of the Saber angle.
• MODE 2: Buzzing sound via SD card
• Slow oscillation: Long buzzing sound (randomly from 4 sounds)
• Fast swing: Short buzz sound (randomly from 5 sounds)
• Bright white glow when hit

Ability to play 16 knock sounds:

• Weak knock: Short sound.
• Hard hit: Long sound.
• After turning on the Sabel, the current battery level is displayed from 0 to 100%.

Battery Safe Mode

• The battery is discharged BEFORE SWITCHING ON: The saber does not light up, the LED button must be pressed.
• The battery is discharged AFTER SWITCHING ON: The Sabel will turn off automatically.

Control button:

• HOLD: Turn on/off
• TRIPLE CLICK: Change color (red – green – blue – yellow – pink – ice blue)
• QUICK CLICK: Change the sound mode (hum generation – hum playback)
• Selected color and sound mode stored in EEPROM (non-volatile memory)

Step 1: Materials and components

I always buy personal on Aliexpress, but you can find the same modules on Amazon, eBay, etc.

Electronic components:

• Arduino NANO
• Addressable LED strips. WS2811, 12V. Take white PCB, IP30, 60 LEDs per meter > http://ali.pub/23csyd
• Button with LED. Take the 5V version > http://ali.pub/23ct29
• MPU6050
• MicroSD (SD Memory)
• Mini MicroSD Module > http://ali.pub/23ms5b
  Or this http://ali.pub/23ms11
• 18650 batteries with protection > http://ali.pub/23moiu – http://ali.pub/23moke – http://ali.pub/23moiu
• DC-DC Step Down Power Module 3A LM2596 > http://ali.pub/23mpex – http://ali.pub/23mpfi
• Amplifier > http://ali.pub/23mp6d – http://ali.pub/23mp75
• Communicator (45mm portable audio speaker) > http://ali.pub/23mq9g http://ali.pub/23mq8h
• Resistance KIT > http://ali.pub/23mqei http://ali.pub/23mqfo
• Power button > http://ali.pub/23mtiw
• Loading port > http://ali.pub/23mtf0 http://ali.pub/23mt69
• CC-CV charger for 3 cells > http://ali.pub/23mt8s http://ali.pub/23mt9d
• Prototyping Dashboard > http://ali.pub/23mrwy

Materials and instruments:

• Polycarbonate tube (light diffusion, 32 mm)
• 2 Butts for this tube
• Some tubes for the handle (I used PVC pipes and sewage pipes: 40mm for the handle, 32mm for the PC tube mount)
• Steel wire
• Common instruments for welding and cutting plastic

Step 2: Wiring

I decided to do this project on Prototype board, 3x7cm, you can see all the schematics and some ugly cables =)

IMPORTANT!

Before wiring, connect the DC-DC step-down converter to the 12V DC power supply and set the output voltage to 4.5V.

Step 3: Handle

I use sewage pipes for the grip, but these are Russian sewage pipes, so I think you have to improvise.

Step 4: Batteries

Use 3 lithium batteries (18650 ordinary laptop battery). At first we have to put them inside the 40 mm tube (handle), and we have to heat the tube for this.

But at first we need to attach the batteries with tape and thicken them with 2 layers of paper.

Heat the tube, put the batteries inside and cool the tube as fast as you can!

Lithium batteries do not like high temperatures. Then take them out and you will see the perfect battery case.

Step 5: Welding Batteries

As I said, lithium batteries don't like high temperatures. Therefore, use flux and powerful soldering iron (100 W) to solder batteries very quickly.

Therefore, connect them in series.

Step 6: Saber and LED band

I have a 75 cm saber, so I cut 75 + 75 = 150 cm of strips.

The LED strip will bend twice around the wire, so use double-sided tape to fix everything, and you will get a double LED strip with wire inside.

The band needs some supports along the blade tube, I used 3 supports made from nails on heat shrink tubing, and secured them to stripping with thread and super glue.

Drill holes in the pieces of wire, the wire will be stretched between two studs and fixed with a 3mm screw, but not now.

Step 7: MPU6050

I connected the MPU6050 with an old IDE flex cable, because it's a good idea to place the MPU as close to the blade as possible. And I just glued it with the piece of PC tube 🙂

Step 8: Grip Buttons

Make some holes for the buttons and charging port, and some holes at the bottom for the speaker. I also painted the handle with black paint.

Step 9: Final wiring

Connect the batteries, disconnect the cables for the switch and charging, solder everything and fix in their holes. Also, solder the speaker wires as well.

Step 10: Fixing the speaker

I fixed the speaker using a 40mm tube ring. It is brutal and very strong.

Step 11: Programming

Also, find Arduino sketches, libraries, SD sound files and many instructions on the project page on GitHub, but I attached sketch and file with all the project files here.

Simple guide:

Open GyverSaber.ino and tune in:

• Number of WS2811 microcircuits in the LED strip (Note: U WS2811 controls 3 LEDs!)
• Turns pulsations on or off.
• It is not recommended to measure the actual resistance of the voltage divider resistors
• The system can work without battery monitoring, just disable the; "BATTERY_SAFE". BUT IT IS NOT RECOMMENDED
• Arduino Flash
• Load audio files to SD card

MicroSD information:

• Size < 4Gb
• Format to FAT
• Copy audiofiles to root

If you want to add your own sounds, convert them to .WAV:

• 8 bits
• 16-32 kHz
• Monkey

Use online converters or the Total Audio Converter program

WARNING!

If you are flashing the schematic assembly, you must power it on! Arduino will not work properly with DC-DC converter connected!

Files: https://goo.gl/DfiAg2

Step 12: Adjustment

I made GyverSaber completely customizable so you can build your own saber with different lengths of its blade and other parameters, just take a look at the sketch settings.

Step 13: Final Screw

So, the Lightsaber is almost ready! Just one last screw, which fixes the blade to the tube. I made a drawing with the entire construction of the saber body.

Step 14: Results

Then the Lightsaber is ready to use! You can see some tests with turns, swings, hitting objects, collisions (Oops!) And also two real Jedi, fighting... Greetings!

Get more information at perfectionidea.com and on our Facebook for more Guide to Build a Lightsaber Based on Arduino: With Light and Sound Effects.

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