How to Make Concrete Bricks for the Garden! 2026

How to Make Concrete Bricks for the Garden, you can mold concrete bricks exactly the size you need. I wanted something the size of a brick – 300x150mm, but a little thicker – 100mm, to give them more stability since we are placing them in a soil/clay bed.

#1: What you will need

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Materials:

• A wooden board for the base of the form. The dimensions will vary depending on what you want. In my case, a good 1000mm plywood cabinet door.
• 2 roofing/ceiling slats – 700x40x50mm
• A couple of cuts of 0.55 mm thick galvanized sheet metal to cover the top surface of the board.
• 4 Strips of 0.55 mm thick galvanized sheet metal, approximately 800×100 mm each, to contain the long sides of the bricks.
• 8 Wooden blocks – 100×150 mm, approximately 40 mm thick to contain the short sides of the bricks.
• 3 100x100mm wood cutouts, each approximately 200mm long.
• 1 Wooden beam 100×100 mm, approximately 1000 mm long.
• 3 wooden boards of 1000x100x15 mm each.
• Flat head nails about 12 mm long.
• 10-20 20×3 mm wood screws.
• A large clamp for woodworking.

Basic tools:

• Hammer
• Screwdriver
• Drill
• Scissors
• Sierra

#2: The Base

• First, nail two strips widthwise to the bottom of the base, about 200 mm from the shortest edges. This makes it easier to manipulate the form.
• Next, nail the three short lengths of the 100x100mm beam along one long top side of the form. These will form the brace against which you will hold the sections of the form.
• The last step for the base is to protect the top surface with the 0.55 mm galvanized sheet metal cutouts. You can use a full sheet if you don't have clippings, of course.

#3: Partitions

• Now we have to make the partitions that define the shape of the brick.
• Take the 100mm wide strips of galvanized sheet metal and cut them according to the required length of your brick, in my case 300mm, and add 10mm to each end, which you will then bend at right angles to form a vertical support to attach the divider blocks.
• In the next step, nail these metal pieces along the 100mm wide board as in Fig. 2. I have 1 long block and 2 short blocks, which means 1 long piece and 2 short pieces of metal with 2 spaces between them for the dividing blocks, 1 between the long and short metal pieces, and 1 between the short pieces.
• These spaces should accommodate the thickness of the dividing blocks + 1mm each side for sliding fit. In my case this was 42mm. At both ends of the board, a short 42mm block of wood from the end of the metal supports performs the same function.
• Do this on one side of two of the planks, and on both sides of the third (middle) plank.

#4: Putting it all together

• To put it all together: Take one of the boards with the galvanized metal only on one side and place it against the 3 blocksretention at the base.
• Slot 4 of the spacer blocks in the spaces between the metal supports.
• Place the spaces on the center board at the ends of the spacer blocks connected to the first board.
• Place the last board, with the galvanized metal on one side, only on the spacer blocks connected to the center board.
• And finally, place the 1000mm, 100x100mm piece of bar lengthwise against the last board, and hold it in place with a long woodworking clamp.
• In the last image you can see 3 small blocks that are screwed to the base and help keep each plank aligned, ensuring the sides of the blocks are right angles.

#5: Distribute

• Place the form in a stable position where: It can be reached easily, can sit for at least 48 hours, and where a little water runoff will not ruin the living room carpet...
• Take a little oil, anything will do, the thicker the better, and brush all the internal surfaces to allow separation of the form after drying. If you use a thicker oil, it is enough to do it after every 2.
• Now mix your concrete. I use 30kg bags of concrete mix, according to the instructions on the bag, mix your own, in which case, you know how...
• Once you get into things, you'll know exactly how much concrete you need for your form size. My shape is four 150x150x100mm and two 300x150x100mm bricks in a mold and uses approximately 40kg of concrete mix.
• Fill each section with a pallet, packing it into the corners and tamping it down.
• Scrape excess concrete from the top by running the edge of the trowel along the top edges of the boards and allow to dry for 12 hours before the next step. Cover the form with a piece of geotextile, etc. to stop evaporation and prevent cracks.

#6: Finishing

• After the aforementioned 12 hours, keep the form clamped and take a small block of wood and rub the surface of the still soft concrete to give it a more natural and rough look; do it carefully.
• After another 12 hours, you can loosen the clamp and carefully separate from the form.
• Rub the wood block along the top edges to round them.
• Handle the blocks with care, but the thicker they are, the less brittle they will be.

#7: Uses, problems, etc.

• You can use your bricks/blocks to build retaining walls, garden borders, paths, etc. as the images document.
• To date I have made about 20 molded pieces using this shape and the only problem I have had so far is that one or two of the nails holding the metal pieces to the boards have come loose, perhaps wood screws would be more durable.
• As mentioned above, you probably won't save a lot of money compared to store-bought things, but you get the warm feeling of making something with your own myears…
• Storage of the completed form is easy as it fills relatively flat, taking up minimal space in your shed.

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