Building a Minimalist and Elegant BAHIUT Furniture, in order to create more storage space and surface, to be able to clear our kitchen island, we were looking for a great Bahut. I ended up making one, with just basic hand tools. Everything took less than three days. Sound interesting?
Our requirements were:
- 2.40m wide (7.87 feet)
- Minimalist and elegant style
- Colors that match our island
- Massive wooden frame
It wasn't easy to find one. In fact, with such requirements it was impossible.
Step 1: Process
In short, the goal is to get all the pieces cut to the correct sizes, with all sizes determined in advance, and not during production.
The process is as follows:
- Have an idea: Draw it or optionally, make a 3D model to visualize the sizes and proportions, from various angles.
- At home, make an accurate close-up: If you have a rough idea of the materials available, this can boost your design. Otherwise, depending on the maximum sizes available, prepare to possibly greatly revise your design in point 4. below. Depending on your design, 2D drawing software may be sufficient.
- Go to the store and do your materials research: Bring a copy of the blueprint (or even your laptop) and a camera/smartphone. Look for all the materials required, and the type of wood boards you can get in custom sizes.
Depending on your design, it may be helpful to get a scrap piece (ask the store clerk for leftovers, or add it to your order) to train yourself in a particular technique. I did it to train working with a Router
Step 2: Designing
As I said before, the plan is key
- Not only will it allow you to appreciate the proportions,
- It also reveals all the places where sizes depend on the thickness of other parts, mutual and recessed positioning, thickness needed for structural function or to carry screws or dowels.
- In particular, doors and back panels must be sized to extend into the slots in the frame panels.
In my case, since the design is very simple, I made a plan in LibreOffice Draw, at a 1:10 scale.
Decision that drove my design
- Sliding doors bring a lot of simplicity. Fewer parts No tedious hinge alignment. Very light doors.
- The only difficult part is the grooves. We'll look at that in a later step.
- The back panel will be held in place by slots in the frame boards.
- No sophisticated carpentry. No dovetails or similar.
- However, there are no apparent screws. Being an entry-level woodworker doesn't mean producing trash.
- Slightly smaller sizes than our existing kitchen island, so the addition of the Bahut doesn't look massive. Although it looks good, the Bahut is not intended to be the center of attention.
Choice of materials
- I opted for 2cm thick glued beech panels (glulam) for the frame. Glulam can be considered massive natural wood, it looks good, is affordable and does not distort over time.
- The interior shelves are made of 2 cm thick particle board, with white melamine lamination.
- The doors and back panels are 5mm thick MDF panels, with white melamine lamination.
- The front and rear plinths are made of 2 cm thick MDF.
- Custom knobs add the finishing touch.
Step 3: Tools needed and getting ready
Necessary tools and supplies
- Router
- Slotted drill bit, 5 mm thick
- Straight cut drill bit, 12 mm diameter
- Electric hand drill, drill bit, with stop collar for 6 mm drill bit
- Rubber hammer
- Clamps, clampscorner era
- Dowel and dowel markers, 6 mm diameter
- Shelf pins
- Threaded inserts, threaded rod, hex washer, wrench
- Angle brackets and screws
- Rubber for parquet floors
- Black paint, white paint
- Screwdriver, measuring tools, pencil
Step 4: Make the slots
Narrow back panel slots
- 5mm thick, 6mm deep.
- On the upper back side of the bottom board
- In the size of the bottom back of the top table. Be careful that the slot stops before the ends of the board!
- On the inside sides of each rear side.
Wide slots for sliding doors, in the bottom board
- 12 mm thick
- On the upper front part of the lower table. 6 mm deep.
- This is the critical part of the project!
- As the front edge of the bottom board is slightly recessed from the front edge of the top board, the position of the slot should be measured so that its distance from the back is the same for both the bottom and the top.
- The slot in the top board should be deeper, so that the door can be lifted into it for removal.
- The slot should stop 1 cm before both ends of the board.
- In fact, I made a 6 mm thick groove, and I made it 1 cm thick only in the central part.
Step 5: Adjusting the sides
I have (possibly reinvented) a woodworking technique using threaded rods, threaded inserts, a slot and a hole.
Upper board bottom side
- Drill, using a stop collar to prevent drilling (which would ruin the project).
- Screw the threaded inserts.
Inner side of side board
- Make a short furrow.
- Drill a hole (aligned with the threaded insert in the top plate, from the edge, to the slot.
Assembly
- Cut the threaded rod to length.
- Screw the threaded rod into the insert.
- Place the boards and tighten them with a corner clamp.
- Screw the hex washer onto the threaded end of the rod.
Note: In addition to this technique using a threaded rod, you can use pins, which will increase the strength and accuracy of positioning.
Step 6: Make the middle board
No, we are working backwards.
- Align the middle board against each side panel, and mark the edge. This is where the bottom table will be aligned.
- On the edges of the middle board, drill two holes for the pins.
- Using dowel markers, mark the locations on the inside of the top board (which is currently on the floor, since we are working face down).
- Punch holes in the top board, without drilling (which would again ruin the entire project).
- Add the tacos.
Step 7: Bottom Boardof the base
- Slide the back into the slots in the top and side boards.
- Place the bottom board. Its slot should fit well into the excessive height of the back.
- Make sure the middle board is positioned correctly, at a right angle.
- Secure the bottom and middle boards with two screws, running through the bottom board.
Step 8: Making the plinth
- Paint the front side of the front plinth black.
- The front and rear plinth can be tightened to the bottom of the bottom board, and to the inside of the side boards, using dowels. They can also be glued to the bottom board.
- Using the angle brackets and screws, attach the bottom board to the side panels. This is ugly, but it won't be visible.
During this entire step, you may want to use clamps to keep the bottom edges of the baseboards and side panels perfectly clean. Now you can put it back on its feet and give it a first appreciation.
Step 9: Coating all natural wood surfaces
It's time to disassemble everything, for the paint job.
Treat all natural wood surfaces (namely top, bottom and side panels):
- Sand as necessary.
- Apply two thin coats of vitrification gloss for hardwood floors.
- Apply additional treatment on top:
- Apply two to three thin coats of vitrification gloss.
Step 10: Add the shelves
Holes inside the side panels (again, not through) and inside the center dash this time. Add pins.
Add your shelves. Optionally, if necessary, paint its front edges white.
Step 11: Add Doors
Add the doors.
If necessary, sand the edges, until they move perfectly freely.
Step 12: Adding the Door Knobs
You can now add any door knob you want.
Step 13: Enjoying the finished product
Now is the time to admire the work and start using it.
Get more information at Perfectidea.com and on our Facebook for more Building a FurnitureBAHIUT Minimalist and Elegant.
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