Know How to Make a Great Wood and Acrylic LED Light Lamp! 2026

Know How to Make a Cool Wooden and Acrylic LED Light Lamp, the whole project was inspired thanks to my new tool; Dremel. This project will completely change the atmosphere of the room and you will notice its presence every time it is turned on.

Video:

Click to see the Video.

Then let's get started!

Materials:

• Beech wood (from your local hardware store)
• Acrylic (from your local hardware store)
• RGB LED strip lights
• Epoxy
• Lacquer
• Felt pads

Tools:

• High Performance Rotary Tool Kit
• Dremel
• Cordless drill
• Welder
• Wire stripper
• Jigsaw
• Sander
• Chisel
• Metal ruler
• Scissors

Step 1: Cut the wood and acrylic to size

First of all, I set up my table saw by placing the crosscut sled, adjusting the stop block, and setting the blade to the correct height to make all the cuts needed for this lamp. For this project, I decided to use a hardwood. I had a small piece of 20mm thick beech wood in my workshop, which was perfect for this purpose. The acrylic I used was 5mm thick, and I think it is a perfect combination with the wood.

All cuts are repeated because the base of the lamp is 16 by 9 cm.

In fact, just one piece of acrylic measures 28 by 14 cm, and that is the piece I will place on top of the base, vertically.

My experience cutting acrylic showed me that by moving the crosscut sled slower, the acrylic began to melt, therefore I had to move faster to get cleaner cuts.

Step 2: Draw the design of the top of the lamp

Now I need to make the design for the top of this lamp. I want to make a modern and clean design that matches my room.

• I placed the largest piece of acrylic on a sheet of paper, traced its outline with a pencil, and cut the shape with scissors along the lines.
• Then I drew some lines with a ruler. The pattern consists of stripes with the same width but different lengths.
• Then I made all the cuts and the pattern is ready to be transferred to the acrylic.
• To secure the paper on the acrylic, I removed the white protective film from one side and tied it with a ribbon. I left the protective film on the side where I am going to use the tape, because acrylic is very sensitive and scratches easily.

Step 3: Engraving the pattern on the acrylic

As I said at the beginning, I decided to use my new Dremel rotary tool to etch my shape into the acrylic. The most useful accessory for this project is the flexible shaft extension. I attached it to the tool and inserted an engraving bit as well.

With all that done, I'm now ready to make the shape. This was my first time cutting in acrylic and I was so excited. I didn't know what the final result would look like, so I chose this simple pattern that will hopefully help me achieve the modern design of the lamp.

To make perfectly straight lines I used a metal ruler. The last thing I need to do on this acrylic piece is make additional cuts with a saw. I must be careful here, because all cuts must be made at right angles.

Step 4: Drilling the holes in the middle pieces of acrylic and wood for the LEDs

Now, I can move on to the base of the lamp. I found the centers of the acrylic and wood pieces that will go in the middle of the base.

In the drill, I placed a 35mm drill bit and made the openings for the LEDs. A good tip to protect the table surface from damage is to place a piece of wood underneath.

Step 5: Make a slot in the top of the base

For the etched acrylic piece, I need to make a slot in the top of the lamp base. I traced the outline of the acrylic piece with a pencil, placing it vertically in the middle. The best way to make the groove is to drill as many holes as possible within the outline, and then remove the excess with a file.

Just below the acrylic I will place the LEDs, but I need to make more space for them. So, I chiselled a slot 10mm wide and 4mm deep.

Step 6: Make an opening at the bottom of the base for the controller

The LED driver will be placed at the bottom of the base. It's pretty big, but I didn't have a smaller one, which means I need to find a way to insert it into the bottom piece of wood. I'll just use hot glue to secure it in place, so I'll cut out the mounting holes as they are completely unnecessary. Once this was done, I flattened the box, which would fit perfectly into the bottom.

I need to make a large opening for the controller. To make my life easier, I drilled a hole with a 12mm drill bit and then inserted a hole saw into the hole, which made cutting much easier. The adjustments I made with a rasp.

Another thing I need to do is drill 2 holes in the back of the bottom, a larger hole for the adapter and a smaller hole for the IR receiver.

Step 7: Cutting the LED strip to the desired length

I wanted the color to change, and for that I used the RGB LED strip. The 50cm LED strip is enough, so I took scissors and carefully cut the designated lines, between the copper pads.

Before putting all the pieces together, I removed the protective film from the acrylic.

Step 8: Assembling the lamp

I began the assembly by gluing the LEDs into the slot with an epoxy. Then he moved on to the other pieces and glued them with an epoxy as well. Here I paid attention to the LEDs, making sure not to damage them when gluing.

When it comes to gluing acrylic to wood, I recommend using epoxy as it is one of the best adhesives for this purpose.

Once I was done with all the parts, I secured it and let it dry.

Step 9: Sanding and varnishing the base

TemporarilyBefore I placed the LEDs inside the base and covered them with masking tape to sand the entire surface. I used 220 grit sandpaper to sand the base lightly and make it nice and smooth.

The surface is ready to be varnished, so I am applying a transparent finish (Shellac) to emphasize the beauty of the beech wood. This is the most satisfying part of the entire project.

Step 10: Installing the driver

In order to place the controller inside the lamp base, I need to cut half the length of its cable and remove 1 cm of the outer casing. The cable consists of 4 wires, 1 common positive wire and 3 negative wires, one for each of the 3 channels.

• I used wire strippers to expose the ends of the wires and then soldered them onto the LED strip pads with a soldering iron and solder.
• In the photo you can see that although the colors of the wires are soldered in order, they do not match the letters written on the Coper pads. Then, the green wire is soldered to the letter R, and the red wire to the letter G.
• I checked if everything was okay by connecting the 12V adapter to the controller.
• Everything works correctly, so I can attach the controller with a hot glue.
• I placed the LEDs inside the base, making sure they were close to the acrylic, inserted the IR receiver into the smaller hole, and secured the driver in place with a hot glue.
• To avoid scratching any surfaces, I will have the feet stick out of the felt. I'm cutting out squares of the felt and joining 2 in each corner, which will make enough room for the controller.

Step 11: Inserting the etched acrylic into the slot

Finally, I removed the protective film from the etched acrylic piece and fixed it in the slot with an epoxy. Using the right angle ruler I make sure it is positioned correctly at the correct angle and leave it completely dry.

This means I'm done with the lamp.

Step 12: Enjoying the light!

Now I can turn on this wonderful lamp and enjoy its beauty. This lamp is very simple and modern at the same time, and I am sure it would be a great accent in my home.

This was a really interesting and fun process of building such a lamp. I hope this detailed tutorial helps you make your own lamp. Greetings!

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