LED Acrylic and Curved Wood Lamp with Concrete Base 2026

Acrylic and Curved Wood LED Lamp with Concrete Base, I will show you how to build a wooden and acrylic LED lamp with a concrete base. I'll show you some tips on how to work with concrete, how to make different wood shapes, and how to bend acrylic the easiest way.

Below you can find the tools and materials I used for this project.

Materials:

• Beech wood
• Acrylic
• 12V DC power connector
• Power switch
• Spray paint
• Lacquer
• LED strip
• Adhesive tape
• Silicone pads
• Wood glue
• Epoxy

Tools:

• Sierra
• Circular saw
• Cordless drill
• Random orbital sander
• Sanding block
• Welder http://amzn.to/2osi20O
• Metal ruler
• Lime
• Protective gloves
• Masonry Drill Bit Set

Step 1: Make the concrete base

Of the most basic, you can do it with any cement of your choice and add whatever you prefer. In this case I like this way. You can then sand its surface to make its surface smoother.

Step 2: Mold the shape of the lamp

The body of the lamp is made of wood (I used beech wood). I drew a curve on the wooden deck. Some points were set 3 cm apart on the side of the curve.  The form is finished.

To create the body of the lamp, I have to cut 4 pieces.

You need 1cm width of the first 2 pieces, to create space for the LEDs and acrylic.

Step 3: Assembling the lamp body

To put all the pieces together, I just used a large amount of wood glue.

I held the body with some clamps and let it dry. Once it was completely dry, I leveled the surface with a file as there were some imperfections throughout.

Next, I sanded the body with a combination of an orbital sander and a sanding block, because I don't have a drum sander.

Step 4: Make a light cover (Bending the acrylic)

To make a light cover for the lamp, I am going to use an acrylic. It needs to be 4 cm wide and 42 cm long. I placed the acrylic on the crosscut sled and made the cuts. Now is the timeto bend acrylic.

This is how I actually did it:

The technique of bending acrylic is very simple and does not require special tools. You need the body of the lamp, a piece of wood that is short from the middle, a portable gas stove, a lighter, heat resistant gloves, a can and the acrylic piece.

I removed the protective film from the acrylic, turned on the gas stove and reduced the heat as much as I can. I then placed the acrylic on the gas stove, 15cm away, and moved it back and forth for about 3 minutes, until it started to bend. At least 15 cm distance between the acrylic and the flame is very important to avoid air bubbles in the acrylic.

Next, I placed the acrylic on the body of the lamp and folded it with the can. I repeated the same process until I got the desired shape.

Step 5: Drilling Holes in Concrete and Wood

I will have 2 bolts going through the concrete and into the wood. Then, I placed the body on the base, traced its outline and marked the screw points.

The holes in the concrete I drilled with a masonry bit that I inserted into my regular drill.

By inserting screws into the holes, I marked the hole points on the wood. Next, insert the bolts to determine their direction into the wood. And finally, I drilled the holes.

On the back of the lamp, I will install a power switch and a 12V DC power connector. For that purpose I drilled 2 holes with the appropriate size.

Step 6: Application of finish to each part of the lamp

To seal the concrete, and make it dust free, I painted it with a clear concrete spray paint. I frosted the acrylic by applying 3 coats of clear satin finish spray paint.

This will help hide the LEDs and cables.

On the wood I applied lacquer to emphasize the natural wood grain.

Step 7: Light Installation

From a waterproof LED strip I cut 2 42 cm long strips at the predetermined cutting points, and removed the coating from the copper pads.

Also, I cut some pieces of positive, negative, red and black wire in my case, and removed the coating on their ends. On the power connector I soldered the positive and negative wire.

On the switch I soldered only the positive wire, because I need to connect the switch to the power connector with a positive wire, so that they can work as one, and at one end there will be a negative one, and at the other end a positive wire.

I inserted them into the back of the lamp and soldered the red wire from the connector to the switch.

After removing the tape cover on the back of the LEDs, I placed them in the middle of the lamp. I then soldered the red wire to the positive pad of the LEDs and the black wire to the negative pad.

Step 8: Testing the lighting and finishing touches

Next I can do some tests to see if they work correctly. When I placed the acrylic over the LEDs, I noticed that the LEDs and wires are still visible. To make them less visible, I covered the wires and LEDs with white tape.

On the top, bottom and in the center of the lamp I applied epoxy and inserted the acrylic over the LEDs.

Finally, I secured the concrete base to the wooden body with 2 bolts. To avoid scratching the surfaces, I placed silicone pads on the base.

Step 9: Final result

Now, I can plug in the power cord and turn on the light from the power switch. The final result is beyond my expectations. I really like the combination between these materials. Greetings to all!

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